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The E-Collar Mistake That Looks Like a Training Problem

Mike — Sat, 05 Sep 2026 15:25:42 +0000

It’s full dark, ten minutes into the drop, and your coonhound is working a track hard. Then the mouth changes. Faster, more excited, the kind of open that doesn’t sound like a coon. You know that sound. Deer, probably. Your thumb finds the button before you’ve even decided to press it.

That reflex, thumb on the button before the brain catches up, is where most e-collar problems start. Not with the collar itself. With what happens in the half second before the stimulation goes out.

Handlers blame the collar for a lot of things it never actually did. A dog that won’t stay treed. One that keeps running trash no matter how many times it’s been popped. One that goes quiet and hangs back the second the transmitter comes out of the pocket. All three of those get blamed on the tool. Almost none of them are the tool’s fault.

The collar is not a training program. It’s a correction delivery system, and it only works on behavior the dog already understands. When a handler reaches for it to fix something the dog was never actually taught, the collar doesn’t create the fix. It creates confusion that looks like a training problem for months afterward. Good coonhound training was never really about the equipment. It’s about what the dog understood before the equipment ever entered the picture.

What the Collar Is Actually Correcting

An e-collar does one thing well. It marks a moment. It tells a dog, at the exact instant of a specific behavior, that the behavior was wrong. That’s it. It has no ability to teach a dog what the right behavior looks like, and no ability to explain why the wrong one was wrong. Those two things have to already exist in the dog’s head before the correction means anything.

Most of the trouble handlers run into with e-collars traces back to skipping that step. The dog gets the collar before it has ever been taught, in a low-distraction setting, what leave it or come here or quit that actually means. So the first time the stim goes out, the dog isn’t connecting it to a known cue it failed to obey. It’s just getting hit with something unpleasant during whatever it happened to be doing at the time.

That’s not correction. That’s noise. And a dog that’s been hit with enough noise learns one of two things. Either it gets careful and hesitant about everything, second-guessing normal hunting behavior along with the bad habit you were actually trying to stop. Or it learns the correction is unpredictable and starts tuning it out entirely, which is usually when a handler decides the dog is collar wise and turns the stim level up. Neither one is the dog’s fault. Both are the direct result of pressure applied to a foundation that was never built.

This is the same pattern that shows up in a young dog that was never required to carry a hunt on its own before it got run with a full pack. The article on why a young coonhound checks back after too much company covers a version of this exact problem from a different angle: a dog leaning on something outside itself, whether that’s other dogs or a correction it doesn’t understand, instead of a foundation it actually owns. The collar can end up playing the same role the pack does. The dog checks in with the correction instead of thinking a problem through on its own.

If your dog runs trash and you’ve been correcting it every time with the transmitter, but the running hasn’t slowed down after a full season of that, the issue almost certainly isn’t stim level. It’s that the dog was never taught what trash means to you in a setting where it could actually learn the lesson. The collar has been delivering a consequence attached to nothing.

Teaching the Behavior Before You Ever Press the Button

The fix isn’t a different collar setting. It’s building the behavior on the ground first, with the transmitter either off or used only to reinforce something the dog already knows how to do.

Start with obedience work that has nothing to do with hunting. Recall, a solid leave it, a command that stops forward motion cold. Teach these on a lead, in a yard or open field with no game scent around, using the collar at the lowest level the dog can feel, paired every single time with the verbal command and a release into praise. The dog needs dozens of repetitions where it learns the sequence: command, then stim if it doesn’t comply, then relief and praise the instant it does. That sequence is the entire lesson. Skip the low-distraction repetitions and jump straight to correcting a live trash chase, and the dog never gets the chance to learn the sequence at all.

Once the obedience piece is solid on the ground, you can start layering it into real hunting situations, but the transmitter’s job stays the same. It reinforces a command the dog already knows. If your dog has never been taught a reliable recall away from a deer track in a controlled setting, popping it mid-chase on a live hunt isn’t reinforcing anything. It’s just delivering pressure with no instruction attached to it.

Timing matters as much as the groundwork does. A correction needs to land within roughly a second or two of the behavior you’re trying to stop, or the dog has no real way to connect the two. Coon hunters have known this for generations without needing a textbook to tell them. A dog corrected on a deer track thirty seconds after it opened isn’t learning not to run deer. It’s learning that sometimes, for no reason it can identify, unpleasant things happen while it’s out hunting. That’s how you build a hesitant dog instead of a broke one.

The same principle holds for treeing problems. A dog that slicks a tree or won’t stay treed sometimes gets corrected well after the fact, once the handler finally catches up in the dark and realizes what happened. By then the moment is gone. The correction lands on whatever the dog is doing when the handler arrives, which is usually standing there confused, not the actual mistake made minutes earlier.

Where Handlers Get the Timing Wrong

The most common mistake isn’t stim level. It’s reaching for the collar the moment things go sideways, before there’s been any real foundation laid down to correct against. A handler watches a young dog blow through a track, feels the frustration climb, and starts correcting on instinct instead of on a plan. That’s pressure without a target, and dogs read the difference between a correction tied to a clear expectation and one tied to a handler’s mood.

That same instinct shows up under a different kind of pressure too. The first time a coonhound draws out in a nite hunt cast often exposes handlers who normally hunt quiet and patient at home but tighten up the moment points are on the board. The transmitter comes out faster and gets used more, and the dog feels that shift even if it can’t name it. Handler behavior under pressure can turn the collar from a tool into a symptom of the handler’s own nerves.

Overcorrecting is the second big mistake, and it usually comes from a handler trying to fix in one hunt what took months to build wrong in the first place. A dog that’s confused about what earns a correction doesn’t get less confused because the stim level went up. It gets more careful about everything, which can look like obedience for a week or two and then shows up later as a dog that hangs back at the drop or won’t commit at the tree, because it’s learned that acting confidently sometimes gets punished for reasons it never figured out.

Worth saying plainly, because it doesn’t get said enough. Sometimes the problem isn’t timing or foundation at all. Some dogs are simply wired to run more trash than others, or slower to develop the kind of impulse control a hot nosed dog needs around deer sign. No amount of correct e-collar mechanics turns a dog with weak natural discipline into one with strong natural discipline. Good timing gets you the most out of what the dog actually has. It doesn’t manufacture ability that isn’t there to begin with.

A 2020 study out of the University of Porto that compared training methods across dog schools found that welfare problems tracked more closely with how often aversive corrections were used than with which specific tool delivered them . That lines up with what most experienced handlers already know by feel. A collar used sparingly and only against a known cue causes far fewer problems than one used constantly regardless of its stim level.

Do This / Don’t Do This

Do this:

Teach every command the collar will reinforce in a low-distraction setting first
Pair the stim with the command every single time, followed by release and praise
Correct within a second or two of the behavior, not after the fact
Keep your own behavior on a cast or hard hunt the same as it is in routine training
Use the lowest stim level that produces a response, and only raise it after confirming the dog understands the cue

Don’t do this:

Reach for the transmitter to fix a behavior the dog was never taught on the ground
Correct a dog that’s confused rather than defiant
Raise the stim level because a lower one isn’t working without checking whether the foundation is missing
Get tighter and more trigger happy with the collar the moment a hunt gets stressful
Assume every trash running or slick treeing problem is a collar problem instead of a foundation problem

When the Collar Isn’t the Answer

There are situations where reaching for the transmitter makes a real problem worse instead of better. A young dog still building confidence on new ground doesn’t need pressure added to uncertainty it’s already working through. If it’s hesitant, exploring cautiously, or still learning what the woods feel like at night, a correction aimed at slowing it down even more usually backfires into a dog that stops trying things at all.

The same goes for a dog already showing signs of being collar shy or overcorrected. Hanging back at the truck. Refusing to range out. Watching the handler instead of hunting. Adding more stim to that picture doesn’t rebuild confidence. It digs the hole deeper. That dog needs time off the collar entirely, rebuilding drive and trust through hunts where nothing negative happens, before any correction gets reintroduced at all.

And if you genuinely don’t know whether your dog understands the command you’re about to correct against, that’s the moment to stop and go back to the ground work instead of pressing the button and hoping for the best. A correction against an unclear expectation isn’t training. It’s just pressure, and pressure without a clear target rarely builds the dog you’re after.

Before You Load Up Tonight

Confirm the dog reliably knows the command you plan to correct against, away from any hunting situation
Check that your correction timing is landing within a second or two of the behavior, not after
Watch your own tension level on the next hard hunt and keep it matched to your normal quiet handling
If the dog seems confused rather than defiant, back off the collar and rebuild the command on the ground
Use the lowest stim level that gets a response before assuming you need to go higher

A coonhound that runs trash or won’t stay treed isn’t usually telling you it needs a harder correction. It’s telling you where the foundation is thin. The collar can sharpen a lesson the dog already understands. It can’t teach that lesson from scratch, and it can’t make up for training that never happened.

Handlers who get the most out of an e-collar aren’t the ones with the most aggressive settings. They’re the ones who did the boring work first, teaching the command clean, on the ground, before pressure ever entered the picture. That work doesn’t show up the night you flip the transmitter on. It shows up every night after, when the correction actually means something to the dog on the other end of it.

Get the foundation right and the collar becomes what it was always meant to be, a way to sharpen a lesson your dog already knows. Skip it, and no setting on the transmitter will get you there.

The post The E-Collar Mistake That Looks Like a Training Problem first appeared on Big Man Sports and Outdoors.

What ‘Started’ Really Means for a Squirrel Dog

Mike — Thu, 03 Sep 2026 19:04:38 +0000

You picked the dog up on a Saturday morning and paid what the seller asked. He called it a started dog, and you believed him, because that’s the word everybody uses. Two cuts later, before the dew’s even burned off the ground, that dog’s made three trees and only one of them had a squirrel in it. You start doing math in your head. Is that a bad dog? Did you get taken? Should this dog already be treeing better than this?

Here’s the part nobody tells you when money’s already changed hands: the word “started” doesn’t mean what you think it means, and it never has. One seller’s started dog chased a yard squirrel one good time. Another seller’s started dog is treeing three or four squirrels a week and getting it right about a third of the time. Both dogs get called the same word. That gap between the two is exactly why so many handlers get frustrated early in squirrel dog training, not because the dog is bad, but because nobody handed them an actual definition to judge it against.

If you bought a dog that’s actively hunting and treeing some, missing more than it hits, that’s not a red flag. That’s what started actually looks like. The problem isn’t the dog. It’s that you were sold a label instead of a definition, and now you’re trying to judge a young dog against a standard nobody ever gave you.

What the Word “Started” Is Actually Selling You

“Started” isn’t a certification. There’s no test a dog passes, no association that signs off on it, no minimum number of trees a dog has to get right before somebody’s allowed to use the word. It’s a snapshot, and every seller takes it from a different angle.

For a squirrel dog specifically, a fair working definition looks like this: the dog is actively hunting, ranging out, using its nose and eyes, and treeing squirrels with some regularity, not just barking at leaves and running the fence line. Somewhere around thirty percent accuracy, meaning it’s right about one time in three when it commits to a tree, is a normal place for a started dog to sit. That’s not a finished dog’s number. It’s a young dog’s number, and it should tell you the dog has genuine ability and genuine interest, not that anything’s broken.

What that thirty percent actually represents is a dog still learning to sort real, fresh scent from everything else moving through the woods that morning. Squirrels double back. They cross into another tree before the dog gets there. A dog with plenty of nose but limited miles under it hasn’t built the pattern recognition yet to tell the difference between a squirrel that’s still up there and one that left ten minutes ago. That skill comes from reps, not from age and not from a single good outing.

This is also where the misjudging usually starts. Bad habits, not a slow accuracy climb, are what actually ruin a young dog’s development. A dog hunted too hard, too early, or pushed to look better than it is, learns the wrong lessons fast. That’s the real danger zone for a started dog, not the missed trees. For the fuller picture on how those early mistakes get baked in before a handler even notices, see The Mistake That Ruins More Young Squirrel Dogs Than Anything Else.

Judging the Dog You’ve Got, Not the Label You Paid For

The fastest way to misjudge a started dog is to draw a conclusion off one hunt. A slow morning after a hard rain or a hot, dry midday isn’t a fair test. Give the dog a real sample, five or six hunts minimum, across different mornings and conditions, before you decide anything about what you actually own.

Hunt it alone for at least part of most trips. A started dog run constantly alongside an older, finished dog will look better than it is, because it’s reading that dog instead of doing its own work. You want to know what your dog can find and commit to on its own nose, not what it can follow another dog to.

There’s real science behind why the reps matter so much. Research on detection dogs found that dogs given rigorous, repeated training exposure showed measurably higher accuracy than dogs without that volume of trials, and the improvement tracked with the number of reps more than with time on the calendar (PMC, Rigorous Training of Dogs Leads to High Accuracy in Human Scent Matching-To-Sample Performance). A squirrel dog treeing in the timber isn’t doing lab work, but the underlying mechanism holds: repetition builds discrimination. The dog needs enough trees, right and wrong, before it can reliably tell the difference.

Watch how the dog handles a miss, too. A started dog that shakes off a bad tree and keeps hunting is building the right pattern. One that shuts down after a miss needs a different kind of handling, not a different definition of started.

Pay attention to what the dog does before it commits, not just whether the tree turns out right. A dog that works a scent line, circles a trunk, and settles on the correct tree after real effort is doing exactly what a started dog should be doing, even on the mornings it gets the wrong tree. A dog that guesses fast off a cold trail and barks up the first thing it passes is a different situation, and it usually means the dog is being rewarded for noise instead of accuracy somewhere along the way. Slow that down before it turns into a habit, and the accuracy numbers tend to follow.

Where Handlers Misread a Started Dog

Most of the frustration with a started dog traces back to a handler error, not a dog problem. Expecting instant reliability because a seller used the word loosely. Judging the dog off a single bad morning. Comparing its tree work directly to an older, finished dog’s without accounting for the difference in miles. Correcting hard for a miss before the dog’s had enough reps to know better, which teaches hesitation instead of accuracy.

If the dog isn’t checking trees at all, rather than checking them and missing, that’s a different problem with a different fix, and it’s worth separating from a straightforward accuracy issue. That gets covered in Why Your Squirrel Dog Won’t Check Trees, And How to Fix It.

Most of the time, a started dog’s low accuracy is right where the dog is supposed to be at this stage. But it’s worth saying plainly: not every dog closes that gap. Some dogs put in the reps, get the daylight hours, get handled right, and still don’t tighten up past a certain point. That’s not always a training failure. Sometimes the nose and the desire are there but the finishing ability just isn’t, and a handler pushing harder on a dog that’s already getting what it needs isn’t going to manufacture accuracy that isn’t in the breeding. That’s a hard thing to sit with after the money’s already spent, but it’s the truth, and pretending otherwise does the dog and the handler both a disservice.

In the Field

Do This

Track results across five or six hunts before drawing any conclusion
Hunt the dog solo for at least part of most trips
Give credit for genuine interest and independent range, not just confirmed trees
Keep evaluation hunts in daylight hours, morning through midday, when scent conditions are workable

Don’t Do This

Don’t judge the dog off one hunt, good or bad
Don’t run it constantly behind an older dog and call that progress
Don’t correct hard for a miss on a dog that hasn’t had enough reps yet
Don’t compare its treeing percentage directly to a finished dog’s

Try This on Your Next Few Mornings

Keep a simple tally: trees run versus trees with a squirrel actually in them
Plan at least one hunt this week without another dog along
Note the time of day and conditions that produced the better tree work
Praise genuine effort on a miss the same way you’d praise a hit, early on
Give it a full six to eight hunt sample before deciding anything about the dog

A started dog is exactly what the name says. Started. Not proven, not finished, not done learning. Thirty percent accuracy on a young dog that’s genuinely hunting and genuinely trying is a dog worth keeping and worth building on, not a dog worth doubting. What separates the ones that turn into real squirrel dogs from the ones that stall out usually isn’t talent. It’s whether the handler judged the dog fairly along the way, gave it the reps it needed, and let the accuracy come in on its own schedule instead of forcing it. Put the work in on your next few mornings in the timber, keep track honestly, and let the dog tell you what it’s actually got. The best practice and the most important advice I can give is, GO HUNTING WITH THE DOG BEFORE YOU AGREE TO BUY IT. That is the only way to get an idea of what your getting into. It’s still not bullet proof. The dog can still have good days and bad, but at least you can see what the dog is in the woods.

The post What ‘Started’ Really Means for a Squirrel Dog first appeared on Big Man Sports and Outdoors.

What Is Squirrel Dog Hunting?

Mike — Thu, 30 Apr 2026 19:55:17 +0000

Squirrel dog hunting is exactly what it sounds like. A hunter walks timber with a trained dog. The dog ranges out, uses its nose and eyes to locate squirrels, pushes them into a tree, and barks until the hunter arrives. That core sequence, search, tree, bark, is what the whole sport is built around.

If you have never seen it, it can look deceptively simple. A small dog disappears into the hardwoods, and a few minutes later you hear it sounding off at the base of a tall oak. You walk in, look up into the canopy, find the squirrel, and decide whether to shoot. What you are not seeing is the dog working scent, tracking ground sign, and making constant decisions about which direction the squirrel went and where it ended up.

This is a tree dog sport. The game lives above the ground. The dog finds it. That distinction matters a lot when you are trying to understand what kind of dog and what kind of hunting you are actually getting into.

What Actually Happens on a Hunt

The typical squirrel dog hunt runs during daylight. Most hunters prefer mornings in the fall and early winter, when squirrels are active and the leaves are off the trees. You park at the edge of a woodlot, cut the dog loose, and follow along as it works.

A good squirrel dog ranges ahead of you, moving through the timber and checking likely trees, brush piles, and feeding areas. When it picks up scent or spots a squirrel moving, it follows until the squirrel goes up. Once the squirrel is in a tree, the dog parks at the base and barks. That bark is called a tree bark, and it sounds different from the dog’s trailing bark. Experienced handlers learn to recognize both.

You walk in quietly, spot the squirrel in the canopy, and take the shot or leave it. After the shot, the dog may retrieve or simply stay on the tree while you pick up the squirrel. Then the dog hunts again.

A finished dog on a good day might tree a dozen squirrels in a few hours. A young dog learning the job might tree two and miss several. The gap between those two dogs is what training is for. If you want to understand what drives that difference, The Squirrel Dog Will Show You What It Is takes a close look at how a dog’s natural tendencies reveal themselves in the field.

The Breeds Built for This Job

The two breeds that dominate squirrel dog hunting in North America are the mountain feist and the mountain cur. Both were developed in the American South and Appalachia by working hunters who needed a dog that could locate and tree small game in dense timber. Neither breed has much to do with the kennel club world. They were built by function, not by form.

The mountain feist is compact, typically under 30 pounds, and known for hunting close to the handler. It works well on smaller properties where you do not want a dog ranging hundreds of yards away. It tends to hunt with a combination of nose and eye, tracking scent on the ground and visually locating squirrels moving through the canopy.

The mountain cur is larger, often 30 to 50 pounds depending on the line, and tends to range wider. It has a reputation for a stronger nose and is often preferred by hunters who work big timber or who want a dog that can pull double duty chasing squirrels by day and raccoons at night. Many coonhound hunters have come into squirrel dogging through the mountain cur for exactly that reason.

Other breeds show up in squirrel dog circles. Treeing Tennessee brindles, Norwegian elkhounds, and various mixed-line dogs have all produced capable squirrel hunters over the years. But feists and curs remain the standard because they were bred specifically for this job. The United Kennel Club recognizes both and sanctions competitive squirrel hunts year-round. You can find more about the cur and feist breeds used in this sport at UKC Cur and Feists.

What the Dog Is Actually Doing

The job sounds simple, but the mechanics are not. Squirrels spend a lot of time on the ground, especially in the fall when they are moving acorns. A squirrel dog picks up that ground scent and follows it. When the squirrel goes up a tree, the dog has to recognize the switch from ground-running to treed game and then work the base to confirm the squirrel is still in that tree.

Squirrels are not cooperative. They will sit perfectly still in a fork 40 feet up. They will move from tree to tree through the canopy without touching the ground, a behavior hunters call timbering. A good squirrel dog follows that movement and re-trees the squirrel after every jump. A young or unfocused dog loses the squirrel when it timbered and gives up.

The dog is also managing distractions. Deer scent crosses every trail in the woods. Rabbits and other small game are present. A trained squirrel dog ignores all of it and stays on squirrels. That focus is partly genetics and partly the result of deliberate, patient training over months and years.

Understanding how your dog’s instincts are already working before you start formal training is one of the most useful things a new handler can learn. What Your Squirrel Dog Already Knows Before You Start Training covers that ground in detail for handlers who are getting ready to start a new dog. Those same fundamentals apply across squirrel dogs and coonhounds. If you’re starting from scratch, our guide on training a tree dog explains how to build confidence, independence, and honest treeing without rushing the process.

What Squirrel Dog Hunting Is Not

It is worth being clear about what this sport does not look like, because first-time observers sometimes walk away with the wrong picture.

It is not passive. You are walking timber for hours, often on uneven ground, following a dog that does not slow down for you. Physical conditioning matters. Comfortable boots matter.

It is not low-maintenance dog ownership. A squirrel dog is a working animal with high energy and a strong prey drive. It needs regular time in the woods, year-round conditioning, and a handler willing to put in the miles. A dog that sits in a pen all summer and gets pulled out in October for hunting season will not perform.

It is also not a short-term project. Most experienced handlers will tell you that a squirrel dog does not fully come into its own until its second or third season. Some dogs develop faster. Most need time. If you are expecting a finished dog in a few months, you are likely to be frustrated and potentially to misread a normal developing dog as a problem dog.

The reward is proportional to the investment. A hunter behind a finished squirrel dog in good timber, with squirrels moving, is having one of the best mornings available in the American hunting tradition.

Where and When the Sport Is Practiced

Squirrel dog hunting is practiced from late summer through early winter across most of the eastern and central United States. Peak season follows the squirrel’s most active feeding periods, typically September through January depending on region. Late season, after most of the leaves have dropped, offers the clearest visibility for both dog and hunter.

The sport is concentrated in the South and Appalachia, where the tradition runs deep and the timber supports good squirrel populations. States like Kentucky, Tennessee, West Virginia, Virginia, Arkansas, Mississippi, Alabama, and Ohio have active squirrel dog communities and a full calendar of competitive hunts. But the sport is practiced wherever hardwood timber and gray or fox squirrels are present, which covers a broad swath of the country.

Access to hunting land is the practical limiting factor for most new participants. Public land allows dogs in many states, but rules vary by property and season. Always confirm local regulations before hunting a new piece of ground.

The Competitive Side of the Sport

Squirrel dog hunting has a robust competitive circuit that runs through the fall and winter months. The United Kennel Club and the National Kennel Club both sanction squirrel dog hunts, where dogs are judged on their ability to tree the most game accurately during a timed cast. Events run from local club hunts to regional championships to the Feist and Cur World Championships.

Competition is not required to enjoy the sport. Most squirrel dog hunters never enter a competitive event. But the organized hunt structure has done a great deal to preserve and advance the breeding programs that produce quality dogs. A dog out of a competitive line comes with a measurable track record of what that bloodline produces in the field.

Getting Started

The practical entry point for most new hunters is finding an experienced squirrel dog person who will take you out before you commit to getting a dog. Watching a finished dog work for a few mornings will tell you more about the sport than any amount of reading. It will also help you decide what kind of dog, what range, what working style, fits the land you hunt and the way you like to move through the woods.

From there, the usual advice is to start with a pup from a proven hunting line. Bloodlines matter in this sport. A pup out of parents that hunt well inherits the instincts the whole training process depends on. A pup out of unknown background may have those instincts or may not. The difference in outcome can be significant.

Equipment needs are modest compared to many other hunting pursuits. A GPS collar helps you track a ranging dog, especially on larger timber. Garmin and Dogtra both make reliable systems used widely in the squirrel dog community. A quality hunting vest protects the dog from briars and brush. A basic rimfire or .410 shotgun handles the shooting side. The dog is the primary investment, and most quality feist or cur pups from hunting lines run in the range of a few hundred dollars up through the low thousands for a started or finished dog.

For a deeper look at what it takes to develop a squirrel dog from the ground up, the squirrel dog training section of this site covers every stage of that process in detail.

The Short Version

Squirrel dog hunting is a daytime tree dog sport. The dog locates and trees squirrels in hardwood timber. The hunter follows, spots the game, and decides whether to shoot. The breeds most commonly used are mountain feists and mountain curs, both developed specifically for this job. The sport demands a fit, experienced dog, a committed handler, and consistent time in the woods. It is practiced widely across the eastern and central United States, with a competitive circuit running through the fall and winter months.

If you have never been out with a finished squirrel dog, find one before you buy a pup. One morning in the timber behind a dog that knows its job will give you a clearer picture of what this sport is than anything else.

Starting a young coonhound? Get the free “First 30 Nights” guide before you make mistakes you can’t undo

The post What Is Squirrel Dog Hunting? first appeared on Big Man Sports and Outdoors.

Ultimate guide to finding Big and tall fishing shirts

Mike — Thu, 20 Mar 2025 16:46:51 +0000

Tired of fishing shirts that are too tight, too short, or just don’t fit right? You’re not alone! For those with larger builds, finding the perfect fishing shirt can feel like searching for a needle in a haystack. Limited size options, awkward fits, and frustrating shopping experiences often leave big and tall anglers settling for gear that just doesn’t cut it. But here’s the good news: your days of struggling with ill-fitting fishing shirts are over. In this guide, we’ll walk you through everything you need to know about finding the best big and tall fishing shirts—whether you’re looking for plus-size fishing shirts or fishing shirts for larger men. Say goodbye to discomfort and hello to a shirt that offers the perfect blend of comfort, performance, and confidence on the water.

When choosing the perfect fishing shirt, there are several key factors to consider ensuring you’re getting the most out of your gear.

Fabric

· Moisture-wicking materials: like polyester or blends that keep you dry and comfortable, even on hot days.

· Breathability: a good shirt should allow for plenty of air movement to mitigate sweating.

· UPF sun protection: is also essential to shield you from harmful UV rays.

· Quick-drying properties” ensure you stay comfortable after a splash.

· Fit: how it feels matters just as much. A good fishing shirt should be comfortable and non-restrictive, with sufficient length in the torso and sleeves to accommodate movement.

· Features: Either—vented backs for ventilation, roll-up sleeves for versatility, and practical pockets for storage can make a world of difference. Additionally, sun collars or hoods provide extra protection during long days on the water.

· Durability: strong stitching and rugged fabrics that can withstand wear and tear will ensure your shirt lasts season after season. By keeping these factors in mind, you’ll be well-equipped to find a fishing shirt that meets all your needs, no matter what your size.

Top Retailers for Big and Tall Fishing Shirts

Let’s get into the best places to actually buy those elusive big and tall fishing shirts! This is the heart of your search, and we’ve broken it down into two key areas: dedicated big & tall retailers and general outdoor retailers that often stock extended sizes. This way, you can find what you need regardless of where you prefer to shop.

Dedicated Big & Tall Retailers

These retailers focus specifically on clothing for men with larger builds, making it easier to find the sizes and styles you need.

DXL (Destination XL): DXL is a go-to destination for big and tall men’s apparel, and their fishing shirt selection often includes well-known brands like Columbia, Nautica, and Cutter & Buck. You can usually find performance fabrics and features tailored for outdoor activities. Be sure to check their website for current promotions and sales – they often have deals on seasonal apparel!
KingSize: KingSize is another excellent option for finding big and tall men’s clothing, including a variety of fishing shirts. They frequently carry their own brand, offering affordable and comfortable options, alongside other reputable outdoor brands. Keep an eye out for their sales and discounts, especially around holidays and seasonal changes!
Casual Male XL: Similar to DXL, Casual Male XL provides a dedicated shopping experience for big and tall men. They carry a range of fishing shirts, often including brands like Columbia and Harbor Bay, known for their comfort and durability. Browse their website for clearance items and special offers to get a great deal on your next fishing shirt

General Outdoor Retailers (with Big & Tall Options)

While dedicated big & tall stores are great, sometimes you want to shop at the bigger outdoor retailers you already know and trust. These stores often carry extended sizes, but you might need to do a little more searching.

Bass Pro Shops: Bass Pro Shops is a massive outdoor retailer that carries everything you need for hunting, fishing, and camping. They typically carry brands like Bass Pro Shops’ own brand, Columbia, World Wide Sportsman, and Ascend. Be sure to check the size filters on their website and filter by “big and tall” or your specific size to narrow down your search!
Cabela’s: Similar to Bass Pro Shops, Cabela’s offers a vast selection of outdoor gear, including fishing apparel. You can often find big and tall fishing shirts from brands like Cabela’s own brand, Columbia, and Under Armour. Don’t forget to use the size filters on the website to quickly find the sizes you need!
Academy Sports + Outdoors: Academy Sports + Outdoors is a great option for finding more affordable fishing shirts. They often carry brands like Magellan Outdoors (Academy’s in-house brand), Columbia, and Under Armour.

Dick’s Sporting Goods: While their selection of big and tall fishing shirts might be smaller than other retailers, Dick’s Sporting Goods is still worth a look. They sometimes carry extended sizes from brands like Columbia and Under Armour.

Top Brands for Big and Tall Fishing Shirts

Now, let’s zoom in on some of the brands themselves. While you can find these brands at the retailers mentioned above, it’s good to know which brands are actively catering to the big and tall market. This section might overlap a bit with the retailer section, but it puts the spotlight on the brands making a concerted effort to offer extended sizes.

Columbia Sportswear: Columbia is a household name in outdoor apparel, and they’re a solid choice for big and tall fishing shirts. Look for their Bahama II Long Sleeve Shirt, or the Tamiami II Long Sleeve Shirt – many of their popular models come in extended sizes. Their fishing shirts are known for UPF sun protection, moisture-wicking Omni-Wick technology, and comfortable fits.
Huk Gear: Huk Gear has recently made a big push to include Big and Tall sizes. If you are someone who loves to sport a fishing shirt with amazing design, be sure to check them out. Their fishing shirts are known for their focus on design and performance.
Pelagic Gear: Pelagic Gear is another high-performing design company that has been getting better and better, also focusing on incorporating big and tall sizes to their lineup. These have a lot of colors and designs for avid fishermen who like to sport their colors.
Simms Fishing Products: If you’re looking for high-end quality and durability, Simms is worth considering. While not all their shirts are available in big and tall sizes, they do offer some options in extended sizes. Check their website for models like the SolarFlex® Guide Cooling Shirt. Simms is known for its durable construction and focus on technical performance.
Under Armour: Under Armour offers athletic-fit fishing shirts in big and tall sizes. Look for their Iso-Chill and HeatGear® lines. Under Armour is known for its performance fabrics and athletic designs.
Grundéns: Known for their rugged waterproof gear, Grundéns also makes durable fishing shirts. Check for their Gage Technical Fishing Shirt. Grundéns gear is built to withstand harsh conditions, making it a great choice for serious anglers.

Sizing Tips for Big and Tall Fishing Shirts

Finding the right size is always important, but it’s especially critical when you’re buying big and tall clothing. Here are some tips to help you get the perfect fit and avoid the hassle of returns:

Measure Yourself Accurately: Don’t guess your size! Use a flexible measuring tape to measure your:
- Chest: Measure around the fullest part of your chest, keeping the tape level.
- Waist: Measure around your natural waistline, which is usually just above your hip bones.
- Sleeve Length: Measure from the center of your back at the base of your neck, across your shoulder, and down to your wrist.
Consult Size Charts: Once you have your measurements, always check the brand’s size chart before ordering. Size charts can vary significantly between brands, so don’t assume that your usual size will fit. Most retailers will have a link near the item, or within the product description.
Pay Attention to Fit Descriptions: Look for descriptions like “relaxed fit,” “classic fit,” “athletic fit,” or “generous fit.” These can give you clues about how the shirt will fit. If you prefer a looser fit, look for “relaxed” or “generous” fits.
Read Customer Reviews: Before you buy, take a few minutes to read customer reviews. Pay attention to comments about the fit. Did people find that the shirt ran true to size, or did they recommend sizing up or down?
Consider Layering: If you plan to wear the fishing shirt over a t-shirt or base layer, consider sizing up to ensure a comfortable fit.
Don’t Be Afraid to Return: Most retailers offer easy returns and exchanges. If a shirt doesn’t fit properly, don’t hesitate to return it and try a different size. It’s better to get the right fit than to be stuck with a shirt you’ll never wear.

Care Tips for Fishing Shirts (Help extend the life of the shirts)

You’ve finally found the perfect big and tall fishing shirt, so let’s keep it looking great for years to come! Here are some simple care tips to extend the life of your fishing shirts:

Read the Label: Always check the care label on your fishing shirt for specific washing instructions. This is the most important step!
Wash in Cold Water: Washing your fishing shirts in cold water helps prevent fading and shrinking.
Use a Mild Detergent: Avoid using harsh detergents or bleach, as these can damage the fabric.
Avoid Fabric Softeners: Fabric softeners can reduce the moisture-wicking properties of your fishing shirts.
Hang to Dry: Hanging your fishing shirts to dry is the best way to prevent shrinking and maintain their shape. If you must use a dryer, tumble dry on low heat.
Wash After Every Use: Wash your fishing shirt after every use, especially if you’ve been sweating heavily or exposed to saltwater.
Treat Stains Promptly: If you get a stain on your fishing shirt, treat it as soon as possible. Use a stain remover that’s safe for the fabric.
Store Properly: Store your fishing shirts in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.

By following these simple care tips, you can keep your big and tall fishing shirts looking great and performing well.

So, there you go: your ultimate guide to finding big and tall fishing shirts that actually fit and perform! We’ve covered the key features to look for, highlighted the top retailers and brands that cater to larger builds, and provided practical tips for sizing and care. The key takeaway is that you don’t have to settle for ill-fitting gear that compromises your comfort and performance on the water.

Finding the right big and tall fishing shirt might take a little effort, but it’s absolutely possible! Don’t be discouraged if you don’t find the perfect shirt right away. Keep searching, follow our tips, and you’ll be reeling in the big ones in comfort and style in no time!

The post Ultimate guide to finding Big and tall fishing shirts first appeared on Big Man Sports and Outdoors.

How to Turkey Hunt: A Complete Guide for Beginners

Mike — Tue, 11 Mar 2025 20:40:24 +0000

You’re here because you’re either curious about turkey hunting or tired of hearing your buddies brag about it. Maybe you’re feeling that primal urge to connect with nature, or maybe you just want some damn good wild-caught protein on your table. Whatever the reason, I’m going to shoot you straight on how to turkey hunt. No fluff, no BS, just the essential information you need to get started.

And before you click away thinking this is too hard, let me tell you something: If I can do it, anyone can be successful too.

The Real Appeal of Turkey Hunting (It’s Not Just the Bird)

Forget the romanticized images. How to turkey hunt effectively requires more than just luck. As you start turkey hunting for beginners its more about smarts and knowing the birds behaviors.

The Challenge: Outsmarting an animal with eyesight sharper than your grandma’s criticism. Turkeys are smart.
The Peace: Getting away from the noise, the notifications, and the endless demands on your time. Solitude in the woods is a powerful medicine.
The Reward: A sense of accomplishment that you just can’t get from clicking a mouse. Harvesting your own food is deeply satisfying.
The Meat: Let’s be honest, the organic, free-range meat is a huge bonus. Skip the grocery store bird and enjoy some real flavor.

Turkey Hunting for Beginners: The Ground Rules

Think of this as Turkey Hunting 101. Here’s what you need to know before you even step foot in the woods.

Safety First, Always: This isn’t a video game. Guns are dangerous. Take a hunter safety course. Know your target. Treat every firearm with respect. Period.
Regulations are King: Ignore the rules, pay the fines (or worse). Check your state’s turkey hunting season dates and regulations. Licenses and tags are mandatory.
Scouting is Non-Negotiable: Don’t just show up and hope for the best. Find out where the turkeys are before you hunt. Look for tracks, droppings, and feathers. Use an owl call to roost the turkey the evening before. Chances are he will still be there in the morning and that gives you a head start. Listen for gobbles at dawn.
Patience is Your Secret Weapon: Turkey hunting is about waiting. And waiting. And waiting some more. If you can’t sit still, find a different hobby.

The Gear You Need (and What You Can Skip)

Don’t fall for the marketing hype. You don’t need to spend a fortune to be successful. Here’s the essential gear you absolutely need:

Shotgun: A 12-gauge or 20-gauge is ideal. Don’t overspend on a fancy model. Reliability is key. I recommend the Mossberg 500. (Why? Because it gets the job done without breaking the bank.)
Ammunition: Turkey loads. Heavy shot. Experiment with different brands and shot sizes to see what patterns best in your shotgun. Don’t cheap out on ammo. It makes a difference. Federal ammunition is what I use and recommend.
Camouflage Clothing: Head to toe. Blend in with your surroundings. Don’t wear bright colors. Your visibility can make or break the hunt. I personally swear by Tidewe. They have value without the big price tag. (Pro Tip: Match your camo to your hunting location.)
Turkey Calls: Slate, box, and diaphragm calls. Learn how to use them all. Turkeys are finicky. What gets their attention today might scare them tomorrow. Practice, practice, practice. More on this later. Primos calls are hard to beat, in my opinion.
Decoys: Hen decoys are a good starting point. A jake decoy can be effective too, but use it with caution. Placement is crucial. Create a realistic setup. Decoys are vital to draw the turkey to your location.
Hunting Vest or Pack: To carry your gear comfortably. Pockets for calls, ammo, and other essentials. A built-in seat is a lifesaver. I’ve used the Tidewe vest for years.
Knife: For field dressing your bird. A sharp, reliable knife is essential.
First-Aid Kit: Don’t be an idiot. Be prepared for minor injuries.

Optional, But Helpful Gear:

Binoculars: To scout from a distance.
Rangefinder: To accurately judge distances. (Essential for ethical shots.)
Blind: If you’re hunting in an open area or with a group.
GPS or Smartphone with Mapping App: To navigate in the woods.

Don’t waste your money on:

Expensive Gadgets: Forget the high-tech gizmos. Focus on the fundamentals.
Overly Elaborate Camo Patterns: As long as you are concealed, you’re good.

What to Wear Turkey Hunting: Comfort and Concealment

The right what to wear turkey hunting isn’t about fashion, it’s about survival and success. Here’s the breakdown:

Base Layers: Moisture-wicking fabrics to keep you dry and comfortable.
Outer Layers: Camouflage clothing that matches your environment.
Boots: Waterproof and comfortable. You’ll be doing a lot of walking.
Gloves: Camouflage gloves to conceal your hands.
Face Mask or Head Net: Essential for breaking up your silhouette.
Hat: Camouflage hat to complete your disguise.

Turkey Calling Tips: From Squeaks to Seduction

Turkey calling tips is what separates the men from the boys. You can have all the gear in the world, but if you can’t call, you won’t get a bird.

Master the Basics: Learn to make a convincing yelp, cluck, putt, and purr. There are tons of YouTube tutorials. Watch them. Practice.
Listen to Real Turkeys: Spend time in the woods listening to wild turkeys. Pay attention to their vocalizations and how they use them.
Don’t Overcall: Less is often more. Let the turkey come to you.
Read the Turkey’s Response: Adjust your calling based on how the turkey reacts. If he’s coming in hot, don’t call at all. If he’s hesitant, try a soft purr.
Learn to “Cut”: A sharp, excited call that can trigger a tom’s curiosity.
Vary Your Calls: Change your calling sequence and cadence to sound more realistic. Don’t be a robot.

The Turkey Hunting Guide: Your Road Map to Success

This turkey hunting guide will take you from clueless to competent.

Scout Your Hunting Area: Find out where the turkeys are roosting, feeding, and strutting.
Set Up Strategically: Choose a location that offers good visibility and concealment.
Place Your Decoys: Create a realistic setup that will attract turkeys.
Call Sparingly and Effectively: Use the right calls at the right time.
Be Patient and Persistent: Don’t give up easily. Turkey hunting requires perseverance.
Know Your Shotgun’s Range: Pattern your shotgun and know your maximum effective range. Don’t take unethical shots.
Be Ethical and Respectful: Follow all hunting regulations and treat the land and wildlife with respect.

How to Turkey Hunt: A Step-by-Step Breakdown

Here’s the process in detail.

Wake up before dawn. It sucks, but it’s necessary.
Get to your hunting spot before sunrise. Turkeys are most active early in the morning.
Set up near a roosting area. Listen for gobbles.
Make a few soft yelps to let the turkey know you’re there.
Wait for the turkey to fly down.
Call sparingly as the turkey approaches.
Be ready for a shot.
Identify your target clearly before you shoot. Don’t shoot at movement.
Aim for the head or neck.
If you harvest a turkey, field dress it and take it home.

Turkey Hunting Season: When to Go

Knowing the turkey hunting season dates in your state is crucial. The dates vary by state, so check your local regulations.

Early Season: Turkeys are often more vocal and responsive.
Mid-Season: Hens are starting to nest, and toms are more aggressive.
Late Season: Turkeys can be call-shy and pressured.

My Personal Turkey Hunting Story (and What I Learned)

I remember the first day I ever stepped foot in the turkey woods. My daddy and I roosted a bird the evening before in a tree just across the pond on our family farm. I remember the hair standing up on my arm when daddy made the owl hoot with just his mouth, that tom let out a gobble that could be heard a mile away. I tossed and turned all night. Finally, when it was time to go, I almost ran to the truck, because all I could think about was that bird coming down from the roost before we could get there. We slipped through the woods in the dark and set up about 100 yards from the tree where we left him the evening before. Daylight was just starting to break when we heard him fly down. My heart was jumping out my chest. Daddy made a couple laps on the slate and he immediately gobbled about 50 yards deeper in the timber than the tree he left. So, we jumped up and made a move and swung around to cut him off before he got too far away. We set up on a knoll and set out some decoys hoping he would head our way before he found some hens. A couple more laps on the slate we could he him coming out of the bottom. I almost couldn’t breathe I was so nervous. A few minutes later we could see him pop his head up out of the bottom then back down. I could hear him scratching around just out of sight. We called again and could hear him coming up the ridge to our right. He came to 40 yards but there was a tree between he and I. It seemed like 30 minutes went by but probably more like 3 minutes, then he gave me the shot. I still remember my daddy telling me to breathe and squeeze the trigger when I was ready, but I better hurry up because he was getting closer. It was felt like slow motion as I pulled the trigger. The next thing I know I was in full sprint towards the bird. It flopped 3 times and didn’t move. You couldn’t wipe the smile off of my daddy’s face nor mine. I learned quick that there is no other greater chess match in the outdoors than the one between you and a longbird. I can’t remember what it weighed or how long the beard or spurs were but I never forgot the feeling that morning.

Ready to Get Started?

Turkey hunting isn’t easy, but it’s incredibly rewarding. Follow this guide, invest in the right gear (using my affiliate links, of course!), and get out there and experience the thrill of the hunt.

Don’t let another year go by while you sit on the couch watching other people live their lives. Take action. Get out there.

Now, before you go, tell me in the comments: What’s the biggest obstacle holding you back from trying turkey hunting? I read every comment and I’ll do my best to help you overcome it.

The post How to Turkey Hunt: A Complete Guide for Beginners first appeared on Big Man Sports and Outdoors.

Master Squirrel Hunting: Tips, Gear & Best Times to Hunt

Mike — Mon, 10 Mar 2025 15:30:09 +0000

Squirrel hunting is one of the most rewarding and accessible forms of hunting. It’s a great way to introduce beginners to the sport, sharpen your marksmanship, and enjoy the outdoors. Whether you’re a seasoned hunter or just starting out, this guide will cover everything you need to know about hunting for squirrels, including the best time for squirrel hunting, essential gear like a squirrel hunting vest, and the best gun for squirrel hunting. Let’s dive in!

Why Hunt Squirrels?

Squirrel hunting is more than just a pastime—it’s a tradition that connects us to nature and provides a sustainable source of food. Here’s why you should consider it:

Accessible for Beginners: Squirrel hunting requires minimal gear and can be done in most wooded areas.
Improves Marksmanship: Squirrels are small, fast, and challenging targets, making them perfect for honing your shooting skills.
Sustainable and Delicious: Squirrel meat is lean, flavorful, and a great addition to your wild game recipes.
Year-Round Opportunity: In many states, squirrel hunting seasons are long, giving you plenty of chances to get out there.

When is the Best Time for Squirrel Hunting?

Timing is everything in hunting, and squirrels are no exception. Here’s when to plan your hunt:

1. Early Morning and Late Afternoon

Squirrels are most active during the first few hours after sunrise and the last few hours before sunset. This is when they’re out foraging for food, making them easier to spot and hunt.

2. Fall Season

Fall is arguably the best time for squirrel hunting. The leaves are starting to fall, making it easier to see squirrels moving through the trees. Plus, squirrels are busy gathering nuts for the winter, so they’re more active.

3. Winter Hunts

In winter, squirrels are less active but still forage on milder days. With the leaves gone, visibility is excellent, and you can often spot them moving along tree branches.

4. Spring and Summer

Spring and summer can be productive, but the dense foliage makes it harder to spot squirrels. Focus on areas with abundant food sources like nut-bearing trees.

Essential Squirrel Hunting Gear

Having the right gear can make or break your hunt. Here’s what you’ll need:

1. Squirrel Hunting Vest

A good squirrel hunting vest is a must-have. Look for one with plenty of pockets to store ammunition, calls, and your harvested squirrels. Many vests also come with a game bag for carrying your catch.

2. Best Gun for Squirrel Hunting

Choosing the right firearm is crucial. Here are the top options:

.22 LR Rifle: A classic choice for squirrel hunting. It’s accurate, quiet, and perfect for headshots to preserve meat.
.410 Shotgun: Great for beginners or hunting in dense cover. The spread increases your chances of hitting a moving target.
20-Gauge Shotgun: Offers more power than a .410 and is ideal for longer shots.
Air Rifle: In some areas, air rifles are legal for squirrel hunting and provide a quiet, low-cost option.

3. Ammunition

For .22 LR rifles, use subsonic or hollow-point rounds to minimize noise and maximize effectiveness.
For shotguns, use #6 or #7.5 shot for a good balance of range and pellet density.

4. Camouflage Clothing

Squirrels have sharp eyesight, so wearing camouflage that matches your environment is key. Don’t forget a hat and face mask to break up your outline.

5. Binoculars

A pair of compact binoculars can help you spot squirrels moving in the treetops or at a distance.

6. Squirrel Calls

Squirrel calls mimic the sounds of squirrels to attract them closer. Barking and distress calls are particularly effective.

7. Hunting Boots

Comfortable, waterproof boots are essential for navigating uneven terrain and staying quiet while stalking.

How to Hunt Squirrels: Tips and Strategies

Now that you’ve got your gear, it’s time to talk strategy. Here’s how to hunt squirrels like a pro:

1. Scout Your Hunting Area

Before your hunt, spend time scouting the area. Look for signs of squirrel activity like chewed nuts, droppings, and nests (called dreys). Focus on areas with nut-bearing trees like oaks, hickories, and walnuts.

2. Still Hunting

Still hunting involves finding a good spot, sitting quietly, and waiting for squirrels to appear. Choose a location with good visibility and plenty of squirrel activity. Be patient—squirrels will often freeze when they sense danger, so wait for them to move before taking your shot.

3. Stalking

Stalking involves moving slowly and quietly through the woods, stopping frequently to scan for squirrels. This method works best in areas with less dense cover.

4. Use Calls

Squirrel calls can be incredibly effective. Use a barking call to mimic a squirrel’s alarm call, which can pique their curiosity and draw them closer. Distress calls can also attract squirrels looking to investigate the commotion.

5. Shoot Squirrels Ethically

Aim for headshots to ensure a quick, humane kill and preserve the meat. If you’re using a shotgun, aim for the center of the squirrel’s body to ensure a clean hit.

Best Places to Hunt Squirrels

Knowing where to hunt is just as important as knowing how. Here are some top locations:

Hardwood Forests: Oak, hickory, and walnut trees are squirrel magnets.
Edge Habitats: The transition zones between forests and fields are prime squirrel territory.
Creek Bottoms: Squirrels love areas near water sources, especially if there are nut-bearing trees nearby.
Public Hunting Lands: Many state and national forests offer excellent squirrel hunting opportunities.

Squirrel Hunting Tips for Beginners

If you’re new to squirrel hunting, here are some tips to get you started:

Start Small: Focus on areas with high squirrel activity to build your confidence.
Practice Shooting: Spend time at the range to improve your accuracy with your chosen firearm.
Stay Quiet: Squirrels have excellent hearing, so move slowly and avoid unnecessary noise.
Be Patient: Squirrel hunting requires patience and persistence. Don’t get discouraged if you don’t see action right away.

Field Dressing and Cooking Squirrel

Once you’ve harvested your squirrel, it’s time to prepare it for the table. Here’s a quick guide:

1. Field Dressing

Make a small incision along the belly and remove the internal organs.
Skin the squirrel by making a cut around the base of the tail and pulling the skin away from the body.
Rinse the meat thoroughly and store it in a cool place until you’re ready to cook.

2. Cooking Squirrel

Squirrel meat is lean and flavorful, perfect for stews, soups, or frying. Here’s a simple recipe to try:

Squirrel Stew

Ingredients: Squirrel meat, potatoes, carrots, onions, garlic, broth, and seasonings.
Instructions: Brown the squirrel meat in a pot, add chopped vegetables and broth, and simmer until tender. Serve hot with crusty bread.

Final Thoughts

Squirrel hunting is a timeless tradition that offers excitement, challenge, and a connection to nature. With the right gear, knowledge, and strategies, you’ll be well on your way to becoming a successful squirrel hunter. Remember to respect the land, follow local hunting regulations, and always prioritize safety.

So grab your squirrel hunting vest, load up your best gun for squirrel hunting, and head to the woods. The squirrels are waiting, and the adventure is yours to claim.

Happy hunting, and may your aim be true!

P.S. If you’re looking for more tips or gear recommendations, drop a comment below or reach out. I’m always here to help fellow hunters make the most of their time in the field!

The post Master Squirrel Hunting: Tips, Gear & Best Times to Hunt first appeared on Big Man Sports and Outdoors.

How to Build, Place, and Fish Brush Piles for Unlimited Success

Mike — Wed, 05 Mar 2025 20:24:38 +0000

QUICK ANSWER

Crappie brush piles work because crappie are structure-oriented fish. They need cover to ambush baitfish, avoid predators, and regulate temperature. To build one: bundle cedar, oak, or hardwood trees and sink them in 8 to 20 feet of water near a depth change or channel edge. Weight them with cinder blocks, mark the GPS coordinates, and give the pile two to four weeks before expecting consistent catches.

Best placement: transition zones between shallow flats and deep water, near existing stumps or creek channels.

Best fishing method: vertical jigging with a small jig or live minnow, keeping the bait just above the cover.

Why Build Your Own Crappie Brush Pile

Most crappie anglers fish whatever structure happens to already be in the lake. Stumps, docks, laydowns. The fish are there, sure. So is everyone else. Building your own brush pile changes that equation. You put the fish where you want them, in a depth and location you choose, and you are the only one with the GPS coordinates. Done right, a good brush pile will produce crappie for years.

This is not a complicated project. You do not need special equipment or a big budget. What you need is a little planning up front and a basic understanding of why crappie relate to cover in the first place. Get those two things right and the fish will come.

Why Crappie Use Brush Piles

Crappie are not random roamers. They orient to structure because structure solves several problems at once.

First, cover gives them an ambush point. Crappie are predators, but they are also efficient hunters. They prefer to hold in a spot where baitfish move through them rather than chase bait across open water. Brush gives them that edge. Second, cover provides protection from larger predators like bass and stripers. A crappie holding tight in the branches of a cedar tree is a harder target than one suspended in open water. Third, brush piles tend to attract the entire food chain. Baitfish and aquatic invertebrates congregate around submerged wood. That draws crappie, and it keeps them there.

Seasonally, the depth of the brush pile matters as much as the cover itself. In spring, crappie move shallow to spawn and will use brush piles in 6 to 15 feet of water near the bank. As water temperatures climb through summer, they drop to brush sitting in 18 to 30 feet of water where temperatures are more stable. Fall brings a transition back toward shallower structure as crappie feed heavily before the cold sets in. Understanding that movement pattern lets you place brush piles at multiple depths and find active fish no matter the season.

Best Materials for Crappie Brush Piles

Cedar and Hardwood Trees

Cedar is the gold standard for crappie brush piles. It is dense, holds its branches well underwater, and decomposes slowly. Hardwoods like oak and hickory also work well for similar reasons. Look for trees with a lot of secondary branching. The more complex the structure, the more holding spots crappie have.

One important note: green (freshly cut) wood colonizes with algae and invertebrates much faster than dry wood. Whenever possible, use trees that were recently cut. They will attract baitfish sooner, and that means crappie follow faster.

Wooden Pallets

Pallets are a popular choice because they are easy to stack and create a solid vertical profile in the water column. Stacking two or three pallets creates cover at multiple depths, which is exactly what you want. Wire them together before sinking so they hold their shape after settling on the bottom.

PVC Pipe Structures

If you want something that lasts for decades without replacement, PVC structures are worth the upfront effort. You can build a frame with multiple arms that mimic branching cover, and PVC does not decompose. State wildlife agencies including the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department regularly use PVC structures for public fish habitat enhancement. You can check their guide to different types of fish habitat structures for design ideas and what works in managed fisheries.

Artificial Fish Attractors

Commercial products like Mossback Fish Habitat and similar attractors are designed to provide dense vertical cover without decomposing. They cost more than natural materials but last much longer. For anglers fishing ponds or private water who want a permanent solution, these are worth considering.

Where to Put Crappie Brush Piles

Location is the difference between a brush pile that produces fish for years and one that sits empty. Crappie do not randomly occupy any piece of cover. They use structure that sits on or near the routes they already travel.

Three placement principles will serve you well every time:

Depth transitions. Brush piles placed at the edge of a depth change consistently outperform piles dropped in the middle of a flat. Look for the transition from a shallow cove into the main channel, the point where a creek channel bends under the lake surface, or a ledge where the bottom drops from 10 feet to 18 feet. Crappie use these transitions as travel highways, and a brush pile sitting on that edge becomes a natural stopping point.

Proximity to natural structure. If the lake has existing stumps, submerged timber, or rock piles, placing your brush near them can pay dividends. Crappie already know those areas. Adding a new brush pile nearby gives them one more reason to stay in that zone and gives you a spot you control entirely.

Accessibility and repeatability. Place every pile somewhere you can return to precisely. Drop a GPS waypoint the moment the pile hits the water. A brush pile you cannot find again is a waste of effort.

Depth guide by season:

Spring (pre-spawn and spawn): 6 to 15 feet, near flats or bank structure
Early summer: 15 to 22 feet, transitional water near channels
Late summer: 20 to 30 feet, deeper water with stable temperatures
Fall: 12 to 20 feet as fish move back toward transitional zones
Winter: 20 to 35 feet in the deepest reliable cover you have

How to Build and Sink a Brush Pile

The process is straightforward. What separates a good pile from a mediocre one is how well it holds together after sinking and how vertically it presents cover through the water column.

Bundle your materials

Tie trees or branches together tightly with zip ties, heavy wire, or rope. The goal is to keep the bundle intact when it hits the bottom. A pile that falls apart on the way down ends up scattered and flat, which is far less attractive to fish than a tight, upright structure.

2	Add serious weight Use two or more cinder blocks per bundle. Do not underestimate current, wave action, or boat traffic. A brush pile that shifts or rolls after settling in the lake becomes much harder to fish precisely. When in doubt, add more weight.

Build vertical profile

Whenever possible, orient the structure so branches extend upward through the water column rather than lying flat on the bottom. Crappie will stack vertically in cover, and a pile that extends from the bottom to within a few feet of the surface gives you far more fish-holding territory to work.

4	Lower it slowly Use a rope to control the descent so the pile lands intact and upright. Dropping it free over the side usually results in it tumbling and flattening. Lower it hand over hand until you feel it hit bottom.

Mark it precisely

Drop a waypoint the moment the pile settles. Take a secondary reference using nearby landmarks so you can find it visually from the surface. A buoy is useful early on while you learn the exact position, but remove it eventually if you want to keep the spot private on public water.

How Long Before Crappie Find Your Brush Pile

The standard timeline is two to four weeks before a new pile begins holding consistent numbers of crappie. The process starts with algae and invertebrates colonizing the wood. Baitfish follow. Crappie follow the baitfish.

That said, placement matters more than patience. A pile dropped on a productive transition zone in active crappie water can have fish on it within days. A pile dropped in the wrong location can sit empty for months regardless of how long you wait.

If you sink a pile in late winter or early spring when crappie are actively moving, you may be pleasantly surprised how quickly they adopt it. Those fish are already traveling toward their spawning areas and will investigate new structure quickly.

Fishing Brush Piles When Conditions Change

One situation that catches a lot of anglers off guard is fishing brush piles after runoff or heavy rain muddies the water. The fish do not leave the structure, but they tend to compress tighter into it and stop chasing bait. In stained or muddy conditions, you need to bring the bait to them rather than counting on movement. Slow way down, use chartreuse or bright white jigs that are visible at short distances, and keep the presentation inside the branches rather than above the pile.

For a deeper look at how crappie adjust their behavior when visibility drops, see how to catch crappie in muddy water during spring. The same adjustment principles apply whether you are fishing a brush pile or open water.

Finding Brush Piles with a Fish Finder

If you want to locate brush piles someone else built, or verify that your own pile is in good shape after winter, a quality fish finder will do the job. Here is what to look for.

Down imaging: When you pass directly over a brush pile, you will see an irregular, branching shape on the screen. It will look noticeably different from a flat, clean bottom. The more branches and complexity visible in the image, the more productive the pile tends to be.

Side imaging: Side imaging lets you scan structure to the sides of the boat without running directly over it, which is useful because passing over a pile with the trolling motor can spook fish. You can check four or five brush piles in a row without ever positioning the boat directly above them, then park on whichever one is holding fish.

Marking your finds: When you locate a pile, drop a waypoint immediately. If you are not sure exactly where the pile is within a few feet, try this: motor slowly toward the pile while watching the down imaging screen. The moment the pile begins to appear at the edge of the screen, toss a marker buoy over your shoulder. That lands the buoy almost exactly above the pile. Take a GPS waypoint from there before you move the boat.

How to Fish a Crappie Brush Pile

Once you are positioned over a good pile, the presentation is fairly simple. Crappie in brush are almost always holding at a specific depth and usually at the top edge of the cover. Your goal is to put the bait right at that level without dropping into the branches and snagging.

Vertical Jigging

Drop a 1/16 or 1/8 oz jig straight down until it reaches the top of the brush. Work it with subtle lifts and pauses. Crappie will often hit on the fall or during a slight pause. If you are getting short strikes or missing fish, try slowing down even further. In cold water especially, crappie do not chase. You need to hold the bait in their face for a moment.

Live Minnow Under a Slip Float

A slip float lets you dial in the exact depth without constantly hand-lining. Set the stop knot so the minnow is suspended two to three feet above the brush. Crappie will rise to take a minnow much more readily than they will drop to one, so you want the bait above the pile, not in it.

Trolling Over a Brush Line

If you have built a series of piles along a channel edge, trolling a slow pass over them with small jigs is an efficient way to determine which piles are holding fish before committing to one spot. Longline trolling for crappie is one of the most effective methods for covering a brush line quickly and identifying where the fish are concentrated on any given day.

Color and Speed

Start with white, chartreuse, or a natural shad pattern. In clear water, natural colors and lighter presentations usually outperform bright ones. In stained water, go chartreuse or bright white. Speed should be slow to dead slow. A crappie sitting tight in brush cover has no interest in chasing anything that moves quickly past it.

Common Brush Pile Mistakes

Fishing too soon. Dropping a pile and returning the next day expecting a limit is setting yourself up for disappointment. Give the pile at least two weeks. Three is better.

Wrong depth for the season. A brush pile at 12 feet that produces great fishing in March may sit empty in July. You need piles at multiple depths to stay on fish through the year.

Fishing directly on top of the pile. Running the trolling motor over a brush pile pushes crappie off the structure. Approach from the side, cut the motor well short of the pile, and drift or anchor just off the edge of it.

Using light materials without enough weight. Brush that rolls off the anchor point and settles on flat bottom loses most of its value. Cedar and wood are buoyant and want to float. Weight them more than you think you need to.

Forgetting to check regulations. Most public lakes allow private fish attractors, but some require permits, have restrictions on materials, or prohibit them entirely in certain areas. Check with your state wildlife agency before sinking anything on public water.

	Brush Pile Build and Launch Checklist
o	Materials gathered: cedar, hardwood, pallets, or PVC structure
o	Adequate weight secured: two or more cinder blocks per bundle
o	Target location identified: depth transition or channel edge
o	Depth confirmed appropriate for current season
o	GPS device charged and ready to mark waypoint
o	Bundle tied tightly to hold shape underwater
o	Lowered slowly with rope to keep structure intact
o	GPS waypoint dropped immediately after settling
o	Secondary landmark reference noted
o	Regulations confirmed for this body of water

Adjusting for Different Conditions

Post cold front: After a front pushes through, crappie in brush piles tend to sit lower and tighter in the structure. Drop your bait deeper into the pile, slow the presentation to almost nothing, and be patient. They will bite if the bait is right in front of them.

High, rising water: Rising water often pulls crappie shallower as they follow baitfish that move onto newly flooded vegetation and banks. Your deep brush piles may go temporarily quiet. Check shallower structure and flooded bank cover during high water periods.

Summer heat: When surface temperatures climb above 80 degrees, most of your fish will abandon shallow piles entirely. Concentrate on deeper structure in 22 to 30 feet of water. Fish early morning or after sundown when temperatures drop slightly and crappie move up to feed.

Clear water: In very clear lakes, crappie in brush piles can become boat-shy. Stay further back from the pile, use lighter line, and downsize your presentation. Smaller jigs in natural colors are more effective in clear conditions than big bright rigs.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many brush piles should I build?

Start with four to six piles spread across different depths. Having piles at 10, 15, 20, and 25 feet gives you options through every season and every weather pattern. One productive pile at the right depth is worth ten in the wrong spot.

Can I build brush piles on a public lake?

Most public lakes allow private fish attractors, but some require notification to the lake manager or prohibit certain materials. Check with your state wildlife agency or the Army Corps of Engineers before placing anything on federally managed water.

How deep should a crappie brush pile be?

That depends on the season. In spring, 8 to 15 feet is productive near spawning areas. In summer, 20 to 30 feet is more effective as fish seek cooler water. The most versatile approach is building piles at multiple depths so you always have one in the zone.

Do artificial fish attractors work as well as natural brush?

They work differently. Natural brush colonizes with invertebrates and algae faster, which attracts baitfish quickly. Artificial PVC attractors last much longer and never need replacing. Many serious crappie anglers use both, sinking natural brush for quick colonization and PVC structures for permanent long-term cover.

How do I fish a brush pile without getting snagged constantly?

Use lighter jig heads (1/32 to 1/16 oz), keep your line vertical rather than casting in at an angle, and work above the brush rather than down into it. A slip float set two to three feet above the pile eliminates most snag problems. When you do snag, pull straight up with steady pressure rather than jerking.

Take It to the Water

Building crappie brush piles is one of the highest-return investments you can make as an angler. It takes a few hours of work, some basic materials, and the right location, and it can put fish in your boat for years. The key is understanding that placement matters more than materials. A well-located brush pile with simple cedar trees will consistently outproduce a fancy PVC structure dropped in the wrong spot.

Get the depth right for the season, build toward transition zones, weight your piles heavily enough that they stay put, and give them time before you judge them. Do those things and you will have a network of spots that are entirely yours.

The post How to Build, Place, and Fish Brush Piles for Unlimited Success first appeared on Big Man Sports and Outdoors.

“Master Longline Trolling for Crappie: The Ultimate Beginner’s Guide to Catching More Fish”

Mike — Wed, 05 Mar 2025 17:39:02 +0000

Hey, friend! If you’re looking to up your fishing game and want to boat some crappie, longline trolling might just be the ticket. It’s a fun, productive way to fish that allows you to cover a lot of water while maximizing your chances of catching fish. In this guide, I’m sharing everything you need to know to get started with longline trolling for crappie.

What is Longline Trolling?

Longline trolling is a method where you drag multiple lines behind your boat at a slow speed, presenting baits to crappie swimming at various depths. The beauty of this technique is that you can cover a large area while keeping your baits in the water, increasing your chances of finding those pre spawn staged fish.

Essential Gear for Longline Trolling

Before you head out, let’s dive into the gear you’ll need for successful longline trolling. Keep it simple and affordable:

Poles: You don’t need fancy equipment to catch crappie using this method, but you need 8 to 14 poles from 16 to 6 feet long to maximize water coverage.
Rod Holders: I use a Tee style rod holder. It’s simple and you can make a variation of them at home if you have the tools. Mine are made of aluminum and stainless steel.
Fishing Line: Use a monofilament or braided line — a 4 to 6 lb test is typically ideal. Braided line offers minimal stretch and easier retrieval of your jigs should you get hung in any brush.
Bait and Lures: Crappie love jigs such as Charlie Brewer Slidders, Mr. Crappie Slabalicious, Bobby Garland Stroll’R and Southern Pro Power Grub. Really any action tail jig will work.
Jig Heads: You can use any weighted jig head from 1/32 to 1/8 oz depending on the depth and speed you want to run.
Boat: A kayak, canoe, or small motorboat works well for longline trolling; just ensure it’s stable and has space for your gear.
Fish Finder/Depth Finder: This tool isn’t essential but can greatly improve your chances. It provides valuable information on water depths, creek channels and fish locations.
Trolling Motor: Any trolling motor will do but if you can afford an I-Pilot or an equivalent it will make life a lot easier. It will allow you to set your direction and speed so that you can concentrate on the poles and your other electronics.

Timing is Everything

Understanding when to go crappie fishing can make all the difference. Crappies are often more active during early mornings and late afternoons. Water temperature is the real key to this method. You want the surface temps to be in the 50 to 55 degree range for pre spawn fish, so plan your outings accordingly. Spring and fall are particularly great seasons, as crappies tend to be more aggressive and closer to the shallows during these times.

Finding the Right Spots

Locating where crappies hang out is key to your success. Here are some excellent spots to consider:

Brush Piles and Structure: Crappie love to congregate around underwater obstacles like submerged trees and brush piles. This is where they ambush their prey.
Points and Drops: Look for underwater points and steep drops, as crappies often hang out in these areas, especially during feeding times.
Water Depth: Depth is crucial, as crappies can be finicky based on the time of year and water temperature. Pre staged fish usually hang out in about 12-15 ft deep in the water column, but the total water depth could be 18-25 feet. Use your fish finder to help identify the right depths to fish.

Setting Up for Longline Trolling

Now that you have your gear and have chosen a good spot, it’s time to set up:

Prepare Your Baits: You have options here. Single or double jig rigs can be used to catch these fish. I prefer the single but have caught plenty on the double as well. Watch this video on how to tie the double jig rig. Just ignore the bobber and bobber stop portion of the video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qaJTm0_kHIQ
Boat Speed: Position your boat and start moving at a slow, consistent speed – generally between 0.5 and 1.5 mph is ideal for trolling crappies.
Let Out Your Lines: For each rod, let out about 30 to 50 feet of line. This distance will keep your baits well behind the boat.
Depth Adjustment: You can adjust your baits’ depths while trolling. Use weights, vary how much line you let out, or adjust your speed depending on where the fish are biting.
Keep an Eye on Your Lines: Watch for any movement or bending of your rods; that indicates you might have a fish on!

The Method to the Madness

Once you have your jigs tied and ready start your trolling motor then you can either cast or place the poles in the rod holders and let out 30-50 ft of line. Some anglers “tip” the jigs with minnows (Adding a minnow to the hook after you put the jig on), but it isn’t necessary in my opinion. Then simply wait for the poles to start bending. If the bite is slow, you may want to turn the boat left and right with the trolling motor. If you get a bite pay attention to whether it was on the outside or inside poles. A bite on the inside poles tells you that the fish want a slower presentation where the outside poles indicate a faster one. That’s pretty much all there is to it. Simply put, it’s a chess match between you and the fish. You may have to exhaust all resources but they’re biting somewhere on the lake.

Tips for Longline Trolling Success

Be Patient: Don’t lose hope if the fish aren’t biting right away. Sometimes it takes a bit of time, especially on windy or cloudy days.
Vary Your Speed: If you’re not getting bites, try adjusting your speed. A slight change can make a big difference in attracting crappie.
Experiment with Baits: Crappies can be picky eaters. If a particular lure isn’t working, don’t hesitate to try different colors or types of bait.
Adapt to Weather Changes: Weather can affect fishing success. If it clouds over, crappies may move closer to the surface, so be ready to adjust your depth.
Use Multiple Rods: If local regulations allow, using several rods can increase your coverage and improve your chances of landing a crappie.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Overtrolling: Troll too quickly or let out too much line, and you might miss opportunities to catch fish.
Ignoring Depth: If you’re not catching anything, check your line depth. Sometimes crappies can be deeper or shallower than you expect.
Wrong Gear: Ensure your gear is appropriate for the species you’re targeting. Using lines that are too heavy can hinder the natural movement of your bait.

Longline trolling for crappie is an enjoyable and effective method that can boost your catching potential. With the right gear, the right knowledge, and a sprinkle of patience, you’ll be well on your way to enjoying the thrill of crappie fishing. So, pack up your gear, gather some friends, and get ready for a fantastic day on the water. I can’t wait to hear about your fishing adventures and see those crappie catches! Happy fishing!

The post “Master Longline Trolling for Crappie: The Ultimate Beginner’s Guide to Catching More Fish” first appeared on Big Man Sports and Outdoors.

The Ultimate Guide to Planting Deer Food Plots: Broadcasting, No-Till, and Seed Drilling Methods Explained

Mike — Tue, 06 Aug 2024 21:21:46 +0000

Creating effective food plots for deer is a key strategy in wildlife management and hunting success. The method you choose to plant your food plots can significantly influence their productivity and sustainability. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll explore three popular methods: broadcasting, no-till, and seed drilling. We’ll delve into the pros and cons of each method and provide step-by-step instructions to help you implement them effectively.

Broadcasting

Broadcasting is the process of scattering seeds evenly over the soil surface. This traditional method is widely used due to its simplicity and cost-effectiveness.

Pros of Broadcasting

Ease of Use: Broadcasting seeds is straightforward and does not require advanced equipment.
Cost-Effective: It minimizes expenses related to machinery and labor.
Time-Efficient: This method is quick, allowing you to cover large areas in a short time.

Cons of Broadcasting

Seed-Soil Contact: Achieving optimal seed-soil contact can be challenging, leading to lower germination rates.
Predation and Wastage: Seeds are more exposed to birds and rodents.
Weed Competition: Without proper soil preparation, seeds face significant competition from weeds.

Step-by-Step Instructions for Broadcasting

Site Selection and Preparation:
- Choose a well-drained site with good sunlight exposure.
- Mow existing vegetation to a low height.
- Apply a non-selective herbicide to kill any remaining vegetation.
Soil Testing and Amendments:
- Conduct a soil test to determine pH and nutrient levels.
- Apply lime and fertilizer as recommended by the soil test results.
Seed Selection:
- Choose seeds suited to your local climate and soil conditions. Common choices include clover, chicory, and brassicas.
Seed Broadcasting:
- Use a hand-held spreader or broadcast spreader to evenly distribute seeds over the soil surface.
- For small plots, you can also broadcast seeds by hand.
Seed Coverage:
- Lightly rake or drag the soil to cover the seeds with a thin layer of soil.
- Alternatively, use a cultipacker to press the seeds into the soil.
Watering and Maintenance:
- Water the plot if rainfall is insufficient to ensure seed germination.
- Monitor for weeds and apply selective herbicides if necessary.

No-Till Planting

No-till planting involves sowing seeds directly into undisturbed soil. This method helps preserve soil structure and moisture, promoting sustainable land management.

Pros of No-Till Planting

Soil Health: Enhances soil structure and microbial activity.
Moisture Retention: Undisturbed soil retains moisture better.
Erosion Control: Minimizes soil erosion by keeping the soil intact.

Cons of No-Till Planting

Initial Weed Pressure: Existing weeds can compete with new seedlings.
Equipment Costs: Requires specific no-till planters or drills.
Learning Curve: Requires adjustment to local conditions and mastering the technique.

Step-by-Step Instructions for No-Till Planting

Site Selection and Preparation:
- Choose a location with minimal slope to reduce erosion risks.
- Mow existing vegetation to create a manageable surface.
Herbicide Application:
- Apply a non-selective herbicide to kill existing vegetation.
- Allow time for the herbicide to work, usually 1-2 weeks.
Soil Testing and Amendments:
- Conduct a soil test and amend the soil based on the results.
- Apply lime and fertilizer as needed without disturbing the soil.
Seed Selection:
- Choose seeds that perform well in no-till systems. Perennial forages like clover and alfalfa are excellent choices.
Seeding Process:
- Use a no-till planter or drill to plant seeds at the recommended depth.
- Ensure even seed distribution and proper spacing.
Post-Planting Care:
- Monitor the plot for weed growth and apply selective herbicides if necessary.
- Water the plot during dry periods to ensure seed germination and growth.

Seed Drilling

Seed drilling involves using a drill to place seeds at a precise depth in the soil. This method is known for its efficiency and high germination rates.

Pros of Seed Drilling

Precision Planting: Ensures seeds are placed at optimal depths for better germination.
Reduced Seed Waste: Minimizes seed wastage and protects seeds from predation.
Uniform Growth: Leads to uniform crop stands and better weed suppression.

Cons of Seed Drilling

Equipment Costs: Seed drills are expensive and require a significant investment.
Skill Requirement: Requires expertise to operate the seed drill effectively.
Soil Compaction: Heavy machinery can cause soil compaction over time.

Step-by-Step Instructions for Seed Drilling

Site Selection and Preparation:
- Select a well-drained site with good sunlight exposure.
- Mow existing vegetation and remove debris from the field.
Soil Testing and Amendments:
- Conduct a soil test and amend the soil according to the results.
- Apply lime and fertilizer as needed to prepare the seedbed.
Seed Selection:
- Choose seeds suited to your local conditions and the intended forage for deer. Popular choices include soybeans, corn, and legumes.
Drill Calibration:
- Calibrate the seed drill to ensure it plants seeds at the correct depth and spacing.
- Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for calibration settings.
Seeding Process:
- Use the seed drill to plant seeds in straight rows, ensuring even distribution.
- Check the drill periodically to ensure proper operation and adjust settings if necessary.
Post-Planting Care:
- Monitor the plot for signs of pests and diseases.
- Water the plot as needed to support seed germination and early growth.
- Apply fertilizers as recommended to promote healthy plant development.

Comparing the Methods

Cost and Equipment

Broadcasting: Least expensive, minimal equipment required.
No-Till: Moderate cost, requires no-till planters or specialized equipment.
Seed Drilling: Highest cost due to the need for a seed drill.

Soil Health and Erosion

Broadcasting: May lead to erosion if the soil is not stabilized.
No-Till: Excellent for soil health and erosion control.
Seed Drilling: Good for soil health but can cause compaction if overused.

Efficiency and Seed Utilization

Broadcasting: Lower germination rates, higher seed wastage.
No-Till: Moderate efficiency, better seed utilization with proper techniques.
Seed Drilling: High efficiency, optimal seed utilization.

Labor and Time

Broadcasting: Quick and easy, minimal labor.
No-Till: Moderate labor, time-consuming initial setup.
Seed Drilling: Labor-intensive, requires time for proper setup and operation.

Conclusion

Choosing the right planting method for your deer food plots depends on various factors, including budget, available equipment, soil health, and personal preferences. Broadcasting is ideal for those seeking a cost-effective and quick solution. No-till planting offers long-term soil health benefits and is suitable for environmentally conscious land managers. Seed drilling provides precision and efficiency but requires a significant investment in equipment and labor.

By understanding the pros and cons of each method and following the step-by-step instructions provided, you can make informed decisions that align with your goals and resources. This ensures a successful and sustainable food plot that attracts and sustains healthy deer populations.

References

Whitetail Habitat Solutions: Easy No-Till Food Plot Methods
Deer Creek Seed: Food Plots for Pros
DeerBuilder: Deep Woods Food Plots
Field & Stream: Ultimate No-Till Food Plot
NRCS: Planting Methods Guide
Growing Deer TV: Broadcasting Seed into Small Hidey Hole Food Plots
Growing Deer TV: Broadcasting Seed Without Dragging or Disking

The post The Ultimate Guide to Planting Deer Food Plots: Broadcasting, No-Till, and Seed Drilling Methods Explained first appeared on Big Man Sports and Outdoors.

The One and Only Guide You Need to Planting Wildlife Food Plots for Deer

Mike — Wed, 31 Jul 2024 22:06:28 +0000

Planting a wildlife food plot for deer is an essential strategy that has transformed my hunting experience, much like it has for many dedicated hunters. A meticulously planned and well-maintained food plot doesn’t just attract deer to your land; it nourishes them, promoting healthier herds and more robust bucks. As someone who spends countless hours in the field, I’ve witnessed firsthand how a diverse, nutrient-rich food plot can make all the difference during hunting season.

Whether you’re aiming to provide critical nutrition during the harsh winter months or looking to draw deer in during the early fall, the right food plot mix can create a thriving habitat that supports wildlife year-round. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll delve into every aspect of planting a successful food plot for deer, from choosing the best clover varieties to understanding seasonal strategies for maximum impact. Whether you’re a seasoned hunter or just getting started, these insights will help you establish a food plot that not only enhances your hunting opportunities but also contributes to the health and sustainability of the local deer population. Let’s get started on transforming your hunting grounds into a wildlife haven.

Why Plant a Food Plot for Deer?

A well-planned food plot serves multiple purposes:

Attracts Deer: A well-planned food plot serves as a reliable food source, drawing deer to your property and encouraging them to stay. This increases your chances of observing and hunting deer, making your land a prime location during hunting season.
Nutritional Support: Food plots provide essential nutrients that help deer thrive, especially during critical times like late winter and early spring when natural forage is scarce. A variety of plants, including clover, brassicas, and winter peas, offer high protein and energy, promoting overall deer health and supporting antler growth in bucks.
Hunting Advantage: Strategically placed food plots can significantly improve your hunting success. By positioning plots near bedding areas or along travel corridors, you can influence deer movement and create predictable patterns that make hunting more effective and enjoyable.
Wildlife Conservation: Food plots contribute to the overall health of the local ecosystem. They support not only deer but also other wildlife, including turkeys, rabbits, and birds. By providing a consistent food source, you help maintain a balanced and thriving wildlife population.
Habitat Improvement: Beyond feeding deer, food plots can improve soil health and biodiversity. Rotating crops and using no-till methods enhance soil structure, reduce erosion, and promote the growth of beneficial microorganisms.
Year-Round Benefits: Food plots offer benefits throughout the year. Summer plots provide essential nutrition during the growing season, while fall and winter plots ensure deer have enough food to sustain them through colder months. This year-round support helps deer populations remain strong and healthy.

Planning Your Food Plot

1. Assess Your Land

Before you start planting, take a close look at your land. Consider factors such as soil quality, sunlight exposure, drainage, and water availability. Conduct a soil test to determine the pH and nutrient levels, which will guide your seed selection and soil preparation. Most soil analysis can be conducted at your local extension office.

2. Choose the Right Location

Select a location that receives at least 4-6 hours of sunlight per day. Avoid areas with poor drainage or heavy shade. The ideal spot is near bedding areas or travel corridors to maximize deer traffic. Also, areas where habitat diversity is present will make a good place to plant.

3. Define Your Goals

What do you want to achieve with your food plot? Are you looking to attract deer during a specific season, or do you want a year-round food source? Your goals will influence the type of seeds you choose and the plot’s design.

4. Determine Plot Size and ShapeDetermine Plot Size and Shape

Smaller plots (1-2 acres) are easier to manage and can still be highly effective. Irregular shapes with edges and corners can be more appealing to deer than large, open areas.

Selecting the Right Seed Mix

Choosing the right seed mix is crucial for the success of your food plot. Here are some popular options:

Clover for Deer

Clover is a favorite among deer and provides excellent forage throughout the year. It’s also easy to establish and maintain.

Best Clover to Plant for Deer: Look for varieties like Ladino, White Dutch, and Crimson clover. These types are hardy and provide high nutritional value.
Clover Food Plot Seed: Opt for a mix that suits your soil type and climate.

Winter Rye for Deer

Winter rye is an excellent choice for late-season plots. It grows quickly and provides a nutritious food source when other plants are dormant.

Winter Peas for Deer

Winter peas are high in protein and are particularly attractive to deer during the fall and winter months. They can be planted alone or mixed with other seeds.

Brassica Food Plot

Brassicas, such as turnips and radishes, are another great option for late-season plots. They provide high-energy forage and are easy to grow.

Buck Forage Oats

Buck forage oats are specifically designed for deer. They are highly palatable and provide excellent nutrition during the fall and winter.

Planting Your Food Plot

1. Prepare the Soil

Start by clearing the area of any existing vegetation. Use a herbicide if necessary, and wait for it to take effect. Once the area is clear, till the soil to a depth of 4-6 inches. Incorporate lime and fertilizer based on your soil test results to adjust the pH and nutrient levels.

2. Select the Planting Method

There are several planting methods to choose from:

Traditional Tilling: This method involves tilling the soil and then broadcasting or drilling the seeds.
No-Till: This method involves planting seeds directly into the soil without tilling. It’s less disruptive to the soil structure.
Throw and Grow Food Plot: This method is suitable for small, remote areas. Simply clear the area, scatter the seeds, and let nature do the rest.

3. Plant the Seeds

You may follow the recommended application rate on the seed bag, but I want a thick stand of whatever I’m planting, so I usually double the rate. Broadcast the seeds evenly across the plot, then use a roller, drag harrow, or a cultipacker to ensure good seed-to-soil contact. It’s always a good idea to watch the weather and do your best to plant when rain is in the forecast, but you may have to water the plot if necessary to help the seeds germinate.

Maintaining Your Food Plot

1. Monitor Growth

Regularly check your food plot for signs of growth and health. Look for any signs of pest infestations or nutrient deficiencies.

2. Weed Control

Keep weeds in check to ensure they don’t outcompete your food plot plants. Use herbicides or mechanical methods as needed. Depending on your seed selection, some sellers offer round-up ready varieties.

3. Fertilization

Apply additional fertilizer as needed based on the growth and health of your plants. Follow the recommendations from your soil test. I can tell you from experience that it’s pretty difficult to over fertilize corn of any variety. I typically fertilize my corn at planting then at a minimum one additional time when it’s about 18″ tall.

4. Mowing

For perennial plots like clover, mowing can help maintain plant health and encourage new growth. Mow at a height of 6-8 inches to keep the plot productive.

5. Irrigation

Ensure your food plot receives adequate water, especially during dry periods. Irrigation may be necessary to keep the plants thriving.

Seasonal Food Plot Strategies

Spring and Summer

During the spring and summer, focus on establishing annuals like clover and brassicas. These plants provide essential nutrition during the growing season and help build a strong foundation for the fall.

Summer Food Plots for Deer: Plant warm-season annuals like soybeans, cowpeas, and sunflowers. These provide high protein and attract deer during the summer months.

Fall and Winter

In the fall, switch to planting cool-season annuals like winter rye, winter peas, and brassicas. These plants are critical for providing nutrition during the colder months.

Best Food Plot for Deer: A mix of winter rye, brassicas, and winter peas can create a diverse and nutritious food plot that attracts deer throughout the fall and winter.

Tips for Success

1. Start Small

If you’re new to planting food plots, start with a small area. This will make it easier to manage and monitor the plot’s success.

2. Be Patient

Food plots take time to establish. Don’t be discouraged if you don’t see immediate results. With proper care, your plot will become a valuable asset over time.

3. Rotate Crops

Rotating crops helps maintain soil health and prevents disease build-up. Alternate between different types of plants each season.

4. Use High-Quality Seeds

Invest in high-quality seeds from reputable suppliers. This ensures better germination rates and healthier plants.

5. Keep Records

Maintain a journal of your food plot activities. Record what you planted, when you planted it, and any observations about the plot’s growth and health.

Conclusion

Planting a food plot for deer is a rewarding endeavor that can enhance your hunting experience and support local wildlife. By carefully selecting the right seed mix, preparing the soil, and maintaining the plot, you’ll create a thriving food source that attracts deer year-round. Whether you’re using clover for deer, winter rye for deer, or any other seed mix, the key is to plan ahead, stay patient, and adapt your strategies based on the results you see.

Additional Resources

To further enhance your knowledge and skills in creating successful food plots for deer, consider exploring the following resources:

By utilizing these resources, you can stay updated on the latest techniques, seed varieties, and best practices in the world of deer food plots. Whether you’re looking for clover food plot seed, brassica food plot options, or the best deer food for different seasons, these websites offer valuable insights and products to help you achieve your goals.

FAQ

Q: What is the best clover for deer? A: The best clover for deer includes varieties like Ladino, White Dutch, and Crimson clover. These types are known for their hardiness and high nutritional value.

Q: Can I plant a food plot without tilling the soil? A: Yes, you can use the no-till or throw and grow food plot methods. These methods are less disruptive to the soil and can be effective in certain conditions.

Q: How often should I fertilize my food plot? A: Fertilization frequency depends on the soil test results and the growth of your plants. Generally, you should fertilize at planting and then as needed based on the plant’s health.

Q: What are some good summer food plots for deer? A: Good summer food plots for deer include warm-season annuals like soybeans, cowpeas, and sunflowers. These plants provide high protein and attract deer during the summer months.

Q: How do I keep weeds out of my food plot? A: Weed control involves regular monitoring, using herbicides, and mechanical methods like mowing or hand-pulling. Keeping weeds in check ensures that your food plot plants thrive without competition.

By addressing these common questions and following the steps outlined in this guide, you’ll be well on your way to creating a successful and productive food plot for deer.

The post The One and Only Guide You Need to Planting Wildlife Food Plots for Deer first appeared on Big Man Sports and Outdoors.