Uncategorized - Big Man Sports and Outdoors

How to Build Track Patience in a Young Squirrel Dog

Mike — Mon, 23 Feb 2026 23:28:18 +0000

Some young squirrel dogs move like they’re late for something.

They strike scent and rush it. They blow past losses. They hit a hot spot of scent and guess at a tree before the track is finished.

From a distance it looks like drive. It feels exciting. The dog is busy. He’s covering ground. He’s barking.

But when you start shining trees, you see the pattern.

He isn’t finishing tracks. He’s hurrying through them.

That is not a nose problem. It is a patience problem.

And track patience is something you build on purpose.

What’s Actually Happening

When a young squirrel dog overruns a track and refuses to slow down on scent, most handlers assume he just lacks nose. In reality, many young squirrel dogs rush tracks because they have never been taught to work through thinning scent. The cause is usually one of three things.

He is letting excitement outrun understanding.

He is uncomfortable when scent thins out.

Or he has never been taught that finishing matters more than speed.

Young dogs often think movement equals progress. When scent fades, they panic. Instead of slowing down and working it out, they swing wide, grab the strongest scent nearby, or guess at a tree.

Over time, that becomes a habit.

A dog that never learns to slow down will never become truly accurate.

Track patience is the foundation of accuracy.

Why It Happens

There are several common causes.

Too Much Early Freedom

If a pup was allowed to range wide without structure, he may have learned to move fast before he learned to track correctly. Freedom without understanding builds speed. It does not build discipline.

Overexposure to Hot Tracks

Some dogs are started on easy squirrels in high-density woods. They get used to quick finishes. When they hit a tougher track, they do not know how to adjust. They have never had to work for it.

Celebrating Speed

If a handler praises quick trees without evaluating how the track was worked, the dog learns what matters. Dogs repeat what gets rewarded. If speed gets attention, patience disappears.

Lack of Solo Hunting

Dogs that always run with others may never fully process a loss on their own. Alone, they are forced to solve problems. In a pack, they can hide weaknesses. Track patience grows in problem-solving moments.

How to Fix It

You do not fix impatience with heavy correction. You fix it with structure. Follow this framework.

Slow the Hunt Down

Do not rush from drop to drop. Let the dog work. When he hits scent, resist the urge to push him forward. Stay quiet. Give him space to figure it out. Silence builds concentration.

Hunt Tougher Ground Occasionally

Speculation if overused, but generally true: dogs improve when challenged. Hunt areas with moderate squirrel density. Not empty woods, but not easy woods either. Let him experience losses that require thinking.

Do Not Reward Guess Trees

If he guesses and trees short, calmly lead him off. No drama. No anger. Accuracy must mean something. But only correct once you are certain he understands the difference.

Increase Solo Hunts

Solo hunting exposes impatience quickly. Without another dog influencing the outcome, you can see how he handles thinning scent. If he slows down and works it out, you are building something valuable.

End on Finished Tracks

When he works a track correctly and finishes it honestly, let that matter. Calm praise. Consistency. Repetition. Dogs build confidence through correct repetitions.

What Most Handlers Get Wrong

Most handlers assume a fast dog is a good dog. Speed is easy to see. Patience is not. Many handlers try to fix a squirrel dog that won’t slow down on a track by applying pressure, when what the dog actually needs is more structured exposure.

Another mistake is overcorrecting early losses. If a young squirrel dog is still learning how scent behaves, punishing confusion only creates hesitation. Pressure does not create patience. Structure does.

The final mistake is expecting maturity too early. A six to ten month old pup will not work tracks like a seasoned dog. Development takes exposure and repetition.

When to Leave It Alone

Not every wide swing is impatience.

Sometimes a squirrel doubles back. Sometimes scent pools in strange places. If the dog checks himself and reworks the area with focus, let him learn. Young dogs need time to connect scent movement to squirrel movement.

If improvement is gradual, do not interfere. Step in only when a pattern of rushing becomes clear. Watch for trends, not isolated mistakes.

For the full foundation system behind developing a reliable squirrel dog, see Squirrel Dog Training: How to Build a Squirrel Dog That Stays Honest.

Final Thoughts

Track patience is not flashy. It does not sound impressive in the woods.

But it is the difference between a dog that trees often and a dog that trees right.

Slow dogs are not always good dogs. Fast dogs are not always bad dogs.

The goal is controlled movement with understanding.

Build patience early.

Accuracy will follow.

The post How to Build Track Patience in a Young Squirrel Dog first appeared on Big Man Sports and Outdoors.

How to Stop a Squirrel Dog From Backtracking

Mike — Mon, 23 Feb 2026 23:10:31 +0000

There’s a kind of dog that looks busy all day.

He ranges. He moves. He covers miles. From a distance, it feels like effort.

But if you watch long enough, you start noticing something.

He keeps ending up in the same places.

He loops back through the timber he already hunted. He checks the ridges twice. He drifts back toward the truck, then swings wide again. It looks like motion. It isn’t progress.

That’s squirrel dog backtracking. And if you don’t address it early, it becomes a habit that’s hard to break.

What Is Actually Happening

Backtracking isn’t just circling a tree. It isn’t checking a loss on a track.

It’s when a squirrel dog keeps circling back to revisit ground that’s already been hunted thoroughly, not because scent pulled him there, but because comfort did.

It often shows up as wide loops that end where they started, drifting back toward the handler, rechecking the same ridges or creek bottoms, or hunting in circles instead of pushing forward.

On the surface, it can look like thoroughness. In reality, it’s inefficient hunting. A dog revisiting the same area twice isn’t covering new ground. He’s burning time.

A good squirrel dog moves forward with purpose. He clears ground and progresses into new timber instead of orbiting the same area.

Why It Happens

Backtracking usually isn’t stubbornness. It’s uncertainty. Here are the most common reasons it develops.

Lack of Confidence in New Ground

Young squirrel dogs afraid to hunt new woods are more common than most handlers realize. If a dog doesn’t fully trust his nose yet, he may drift back toward familiar territory instead of committing to fresh timber. It feels safer. But safe doesn’t produce squirrels. Confidence is built by solving new problems, not revisiting old ones.

Over-Hunting the Same Property

If you hunt the same woods repeatedly, your dog begins to memorize patterns. He knows where the squirrels were yesterday. He learns travel routes. Instead of hunting scent in the moment, he starts hunting memory. That’s when you see a squirrel dog hunting the same woods over and over, swinging back toward known spots rather than pushing forward.

Too Much Early Freedom

Dogs that were allowed to range out wide without structure sometimes never learned what forward progression means. They learned to move. They didn’t learn to hunt. If a young squirrel dog was praised for covering ground rather than producing game, backtracking becomes just another form of busy movement.

Pack Dependence

When hunting with other dogs, some dogs drift back toward the group when uncertain. That subtle dependence can turn into a pattern of circling instead of committing. Solo hunting often exposes this quickly.

Handler Dependence

A squirrel dog that keeps hunting behind you or keeps looping back toward your position hasn’t fully developed an independent hunting drive. He’s looking for confirmation instead of trusting his nose. That’s a training gap, not a defect.

How to Fix It

Fixing this doesn’t require heavy correction. It requires clarity and structure.

Hunt Fresh Ground

New timber forces a dog to rely on its nose instead of memory. If you want to know how to get a squirrel dog to hunt new ground, start simple. Vary entry points. Approach from different angles. Change direction of travel. Break the pattern. A dog that can’t fall back on memory has to hunt forward.

Shorten Hunts

Long, wandering hunts often create lazy movement. Shorter sessions encourage purposeful hunting. Clear a section. Move forward. Finish. Quality progression matters more than hours logged.

Reward Forward Movement

When your dog pushes into new timber and hunts independently forward, reinforce that. Calm praise. Continued forward movement. Keep momentum. Don’t stall in areas already cleared unless scent demands it. Improving squirrel dog hunting efficiency starts with this one habit.

Interrupt Repetitive Loops

If you consistently see your dog circling back into dead ground, don’t ignore it. Move yourself forward physically. Change direction. Guide the hunt without constant micromanagement. You’re not controlling every step. You’re preventing comfort from replacing purpose.

Hunt Solo Strategically

Solo hunting exposes patterns clearly. Without other dogs influencing movement, you can see whether your dog pushes forward or circles back. If backtracking shows up repeatedly alone, that’s where you focus your work.

What Most Handlers Get Wrong

Most handlers see a dog that won’t push out and immediately assume a lack of drive.

That’s usually the wrong diagnosis.

A squirrel dog not progressing forward is almost always a confidence issue, not a drive issue. You fix those differently. Pressure fixes drive problems. Pressure makes confidence problems worse.

The other common mistake is hunting the same timber until it’s dead. A dog learning to hunt inefficiently on burned-out ground is learning bad habits. Fresh timber, varied routes, and new challenges build the kind of dog that hunts independently.

Building confidence in a young squirrel dog means giving him problems he can solve, in places he hasn’t already memorized.

When to Leave It Alone

Not every loop back is backtracking.

If a dog returns to an area because scent is pulling him there, that’s different. Let him work it. Don’t confuse purposeful checking with comfort-seeking.

Young dogs also need time. If a pup is six to twelve months old and still circling, give the process time before labeling it a problem. Some dogs mature into forward hunters without intervention.

Watch the pattern. Is he following scent or following habit? That distinction tells you when to step in and when to stay out of it.

For the full framework on building foundation habits, see our Squirrel Dog Training pillar page.

Final Thoughts

Squirrel dog backtracking isn’t a sign your dog lacks drive.

It’s usually a sign he lacks clarity or confidence.

Fix the foundation. Build forward progression. Break repetitive patterns early. Hunt fresh ground. Reward purposeful movement.

A squirrel dog should hunt ahead with purpose, not sideways in comfort.

Forward movement builds efficiency. Efficiency builds results. And results build the kind of squirrel dog you trust when you turn him loose alone.

The post How to Stop a Squirrel Dog From Backtracking first appeared on Big Man Sports and Outdoors.

When to Correct a Coonhound for Running Trash

Mike — Sat, 21 Feb 2026 18:30:36 +0000

Every coonhound will run trash at some point.

Deer. Fox. Coyote. Armadillo. Whatever moves through your woods.

The real question is not whether it will happen. The question is when you correct it.

Correct too early, and you create hesitation on legitimate tracks. Correcting too late and the behavior becomes a habit.

If you want a straight answer, here it is:

Correct confirmed trash running. Not suspicion.

That sounds simple. Most handlers get it wrong.

What’s Actually Happening

When a coonhound runs trash, one of three things is usually happening:

He does not know the difference yet
He is testing boundaries
He is choosing the hotter track

Young dogs especially, will take the hottest scent in front of them. Deer often smell stronger than coon. That is not rebellion. That is instinct.

The mistake handlers make is assuming the dog “knows better” before he actually does. If the dog has never clearly understood what is acceptable game, correction creates confusion.

Why It Happens

There are a handful of consistent reasons trash running shows up, and understanding them shapes how you respond.

Scent intensity. Off-game often lays a stronger scent trail than coon, especially fresh deer on a warm night.
Lack of exposure. A dog that has not run enough clean coon tracks has not built the preference for the right game.
Pressure and excitement. A young dog can get wound up and follow the first hot track he crosses, right or wrong.
Hunting in areas loaded with deer and thin on coon stacks the deck against the dog.
A dog that has been allowed to run deer repeatedly without correction will keep doing it. The behavior reinforces itself.

How to Fix It

This is where most handlers either over-correct or under-correct. The goal is clarity, not fear.

Step 1: Confirm What He Is Running

Do not guess. If you have Garmin or Dogtra, watch the track. A straight-line sprint across an open field at 20 mph is deer. A winding, methodical track in a creek bottom is more likely coon. You saw the deer jump, or you did not. Either you know, or you do not correct.

Step 2: Verify He Has the Foundation to Know Better

If this dog has clean coon tracks under his belt and suddenly switches to deer, that is a choice. Choice deserves correction. But if this is his fourth hunt ever, that is education, not defiance. Handle it accordingly.

Step 3: Correct at the Right Moment

Correction must happen at the moment of the offense. Not at the truck. Not five minutes later. Not after he switches back. Delayed correction teaches nothing except fear of an unknown cause.

Step 4: Match Intensity to the Behavior

A young dog bumping a deer track for the first time does not need maximum pressure. A seasoned dog that has consistently chosen deer after months of training does. Use the correction that fits the situation.

Step 5: End the Hunt on a Win

After correction, give him the opportunity to find the right track. You do not want the session to end in punishment. Finish on success whenever possible.

What Most Handlers Get Wrong

They correct out of frustration, not confirmed evidence.

They assume speed equals trash. Hard running is not proof of off-game. Some dogs just run hard.

They assume a long race equals deer. Not necessarily. A cold coon track can take time.

They correct because someone else said “he’s trashy.” Another hunter’s opinion is not confirmation.

Or they wait too long and allow the behavior to repeat a dozen times before stepping in. Both extremes create problems. Too soft builds bad habits. Too hard builds hesitation. The balance is in the timing.

When to Leave It Alone

There are times trash running should be managed instead of punished. Leave correction alone when:

The dog is extremely young and still building scent discrimination.
You are not completely certain what he is running.
The dog self-corrects and checks back on his own.
The hunting area is saturated with off-game and short on coon scent.

Some trash running phases burn out naturally with maturity and exposure. Overcorrecting during that phase creates a dog that gets cautious and loses drive. That is a harder fix than patience would have been.

For a full breakdown of building game clarity in a coonhound from the ground up, read the complete guide at: /coonhound-training/

Final Word

Correct a coonhound for running trash when you are certain of what he is running, when he has the experience to know better, and when you can correct at the moment it is happening.

Do not correct on suspicion. Do not correct out of frustration. Do not correct to prove a point.

Game clarity is built through exposure and timing, not anger.

Clarity builds finished dogs. Emotion builds problems.

Starting a young coonhound? Get the free “First 30 Nights” guide before you make mistakes you can’t undo

The post When to Correct a Coonhound for Running Trash first appeared on Big Man Sports and Outdoors.

Ultimate guide to finding Big and tall fishing shirts

Mike — Thu, 20 Mar 2025 16:46:51 +0000

Tired of fishing shirts that are too tight, too short, or just don’t fit right? You’re not alone! For those with larger builds, finding the perfect fishing shirt can feel like searching for a needle in a haystack. Limited size options, awkward fits, and frustrating shopping experiences often leave big and tall anglers settling for gear that just doesn’t cut it. But here’s the good news: your days of struggling with ill-fitting fishing shirts are over. In this guide, we’ll walk you through everything you need to know about finding the best big and tall fishing shirts—whether you’re looking for plus-size fishing shirts or fishing shirts for larger men. Say goodbye to discomfort and hello to a shirt that offers the perfect blend of comfort, performance, and confidence on the water.

When choosing the perfect fishing shirt, there are several key factors to consider ensuring you’re getting the most out of your gear.

Fabric

· Moisture-wicking materials: like polyester or blends that keep you dry and comfortable, even on hot days.

· Breathability: a good shirt should allow for plenty of air movement to mitigate sweating.

· UPF sun protection: is also essential to shield you from harmful UV rays.

· Quick-drying properties” ensure you stay comfortable after a splash.

· Fit: how it feels matters just as much. A good fishing shirt should be comfortable and non-restrictive, with sufficient length in the torso and sleeves to accommodate movement.

· Features: Either—vented backs for ventilation, roll-up sleeves for versatility, and practical pockets for storage can make a world of difference. Additionally, sun collars or hoods provide extra protection during long days on the water.

· Durability: strong stitching and rugged fabrics that can withstand wear and tear will ensure your shirt lasts season after season. By keeping these factors in mind, you’ll be well-equipped to find a fishing shirt that meets all your needs, no matter what your size.

Top Retailers for Big and Tall Fishing Shirts

Let’s get into the best places to actually buy those elusive big and tall fishing shirts! This is the heart of your search, and we’ve broken it down into two key areas: dedicated big & tall retailers and general outdoor retailers that often stock extended sizes. This way, you can find what you need regardless of where you prefer to shop.

Dedicated Big & Tall Retailers

These retailers focus specifically on clothing for men with larger builds, making it easier to find the sizes and styles you need.

DXL (Destination XL): DXL is a go-to destination for big and tall men’s apparel, and their fishing shirt selection often includes well-known brands like Columbia, Nautica, and Cutter & Buck. You can usually find performance fabrics and features tailored for outdoor activities. Be sure to check their website for current promotions and sales – they often have deals on seasonal apparel!
KingSize: KingSize is another excellent option for finding big and tall men’s clothing, including a variety of fishing shirts. They frequently carry their own brand, offering affordable and comfortable options, alongside other reputable outdoor brands. Keep an eye out for their sales and discounts, especially around holidays and seasonal changes!
Casual Male XL: Similar to DXL, Casual Male XL provides a dedicated shopping experience for big and tall men. They carry a range of fishing shirts, often including brands like Columbia and Harbor Bay, known for their comfort and durability. Browse their website for clearance items and special offers to get a great deal on your next fishing shirt

General Outdoor Retailers (with Big & Tall Options)

While dedicated big & tall stores are great, sometimes you want to shop at the bigger outdoor retailers you already know and trust. These stores often carry extended sizes, but you might need to do a little more searching.

Bass Pro Shops: Bass Pro Shops is a massive outdoor retailer that carries everything you need for hunting, fishing, and camping. They typically carry brands like Bass Pro Shops’ own brand, Columbia, World Wide Sportsman, and Ascend. Be sure to check the size filters on their website and filter by “big and tall” or your specific size to narrow down your search!
Cabela’s: Similar to Bass Pro Shops, Cabela’s offers a vast selection of outdoor gear, including fishing apparel. You can often find big and tall fishing shirts from brands like Cabela’s own brand, Columbia, and Under Armour. Don’t forget to use the size filters on the website to quickly find the sizes you need!
Academy Sports + Outdoors: Academy Sports + Outdoors is a great option for finding more affordable fishing shirts. They often carry brands like Magellan Outdoors (Academy’s in-house brand), Columbia, and Under Armour.

Dick’s Sporting Goods: While their selection of big and tall fishing shirts might be smaller than other retailers, Dick’s Sporting Goods is still worth a look. They sometimes carry extended sizes from brands like Columbia and Under Armour.

Top Brands for Big and Tall Fishing Shirts

Now, let’s zoom in on some of the brands themselves. While you can find these brands at the retailers mentioned above, it’s good to know which brands are actively catering to the big and tall market. This section might overlap a bit with the retailer section, but it puts the spotlight on the brands making a concerted effort to offer extended sizes.

Columbia Sportswear: Columbia is a household name in outdoor apparel, and they’re a solid choice for big and tall fishing shirts. Look for their Bahama II Long Sleeve Shirt, or the Tamiami II Long Sleeve Shirt – many of their popular models come in extended sizes. Their fishing shirts are known for UPF sun protection, moisture-wicking Omni-Wick technology, and comfortable fits.
Huk Gear: Huk Gear has recently made a big push to include Big and Tall sizes. If you are someone who loves to sport a fishing shirt with amazing design, be sure to check them out. Their fishing shirts are known for their focus on design and performance.
Pelagic Gear: Pelagic Gear is another high-performing design company that has been getting better and better, also focusing on incorporating big and tall sizes to their lineup. These have a lot of colors and designs for avid fishermen who like to sport their colors.
Simms Fishing Products: If you’re looking for high-end quality and durability, Simms is worth considering. While not all their shirts are available in big and tall sizes, they do offer some options in extended sizes. Check their website for models like the SolarFlex® Guide Cooling Shirt. Simms is known for its durable construction and focus on technical performance.
Under Armour: Under Armour offers athletic-fit fishing shirts in big and tall sizes. Look for their Iso-Chill and HeatGear® lines. Under Armour is known for its performance fabrics and athletic designs.
Grundéns: Known for their rugged waterproof gear, Grundéns also makes durable fishing shirts. Check for their Gage Technical Fishing Shirt. Grundéns gear is built to withstand harsh conditions, making it a great choice for serious anglers.

Sizing Tips for Big and Tall Fishing Shirts

Finding the right size is always important, but it’s especially critical when you’re buying big and tall clothing. Here are some tips to help you get the perfect fit and avoid the hassle of returns:

Measure Yourself Accurately: Don’t guess your size! Use a flexible measuring tape to measure your:
- Chest: Measure around the fullest part of your chest, keeping the tape level.
- Waist: Measure around your natural waistline, which is usually just above your hip bones.
- Sleeve Length: Measure from the center of your back at the base of your neck, across your shoulder, and down to your wrist.
Consult Size Charts: Once you have your measurements, always check the brand’s size chart before ordering. Size charts can vary significantly between brands, so don’t assume that your usual size will fit. Most retailers will have a link near the item, or within the product description.
Pay Attention to Fit Descriptions: Look for descriptions like “relaxed fit,” “classic fit,” “athletic fit,” or “generous fit.” These can give you clues about how the shirt will fit. If you prefer a looser fit, look for “relaxed” or “generous” fits.
Read Customer Reviews: Before you buy, take a few minutes to read customer reviews. Pay attention to comments about the fit. Did people find that the shirt ran true to size, or did they recommend sizing up or down?
Consider Layering: If you plan to wear the fishing shirt over a t-shirt or base layer, consider sizing up to ensure a comfortable fit.
Don’t Be Afraid to Return: Most retailers offer easy returns and exchanges. If a shirt doesn’t fit properly, don’t hesitate to return it and try a different size. It’s better to get the right fit than to be stuck with a shirt you’ll never wear.

Care Tips for Fishing Shirts (Help extend the life of the shirts)

You’ve finally found the perfect big and tall fishing shirt, so let’s keep it looking great for years to come! Here are some simple care tips to extend the life of your fishing shirts:

Read the Label: Always check the care label on your fishing shirt for specific washing instructions. This is the most important step!
Wash in Cold Water: Washing your fishing shirts in cold water helps prevent fading and shrinking.
Use a Mild Detergent: Avoid using harsh detergents or bleach, as these can damage the fabric.
Avoid Fabric Softeners: Fabric softeners can reduce the moisture-wicking properties of your fishing shirts.
Hang to Dry: Hanging your fishing shirts to dry is the best way to prevent shrinking and maintain their shape. If you must use a dryer, tumble dry on low heat.
Wash After Every Use: Wash your fishing shirt after every use, especially if you’ve been sweating heavily or exposed to saltwater.
Treat Stains Promptly: If you get a stain on your fishing shirt, treat it as soon as possible. Use a stain remover that’s safe for the fabric.
Store Properly: Store your fishing shirts in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.

By following these simple care tips, you can keep your big and tall fishing shirts looking great and performing well.

So, there you go: your ultimate guide to finding big and tall fishing shirts that actually fit and perform! We’ve covered the key features to look for, highlighted the top retailers and brands that cater to larger builds, and provided practical tips for sizing and care. The key takeaway is that you don’t have to settle for ill-fitting gear that compromises your comfort and performance on the water.

Finding the right big and tall fishing shirt might take a little effort, but it’s absolutely possible! Don’t be discouraged if you don’t find the perfect shirt right away. Keep searching, follow our tips, and you’ll be reeling in the big ones in comfort and style in no time!

The post Ultimate guide to finding Big and tall fishing shirts first appeared on Big Man Sports and Outdoors.

How to Turkey Hunt: A Complete Guide for Beginners

Mike — Tue, 11 Mar 2025 20:40:24 +0000

You’re here because you’re either curious about turkey hunting or tired of hearing your buddies brag about it. Maybe you’re feeling that primal urge to connect with nature, or maybe you just want some damn good wild-caught protein on your table. Whatever the reason, I’m going to shoot you straight on how to turkey hunt. No fluff, no BS, just the essential information you need to get started.

And before you click away thinking this is too hard, let me tell you something: If I can do it, anyone can be successful too.

The Real Appeal of Turkey Hunting (It’s Not Just the Bird)

Forget the romanticized images. How to turkey hunt effectively requires more than just luck. As you start turkey hunting for beginners its more about smarts and knowing the birds behaviors.

The Challenge: Outsmarting an animal with eyesight sharper than your grandma’s criticism. Turkeys are smart.
The Peace: Getting away from the noise, the notifications, and the endless demands on your time. Solitude in the woods is a powerful medicine.
The Reward: A sense of accomplishment that you just can’t get from clicking a mouse. Harvesting your own food is deeply satisfying.
The Meat: Let’s be honest, the organic, free-range meat is a huge bonus. Skip the grocery store bird and enjoy some real flavor.

Turkey Hunting for Beginners: The Ground Rules

Think of this as Turkey Hunting 101. Here’s what you need to know before you even step foot in the woods.

Safety First, Always: This isn’t a video game. Guns are dangerous. Take a hunter safety course. Know your target. Treat every firearm with respect. Period.
Regulations are King: Ignore the rules, pay the fines (or worse). Check your state’s turkey hunting season dates and regulations. Licenses and tags are mandatory.
Scouting is Non-Negotiable: Don’t just show up and hope for the best. Find out where the turkeys are before you hunt. Look for tracks, droppings, and feathers. Use an owl call to roost the turkey the evening before. Chances are he will still be there in the morning and that gives you a head start. Listen for gobbles at dawn.
Patience is Your Secret Weapon: Turkey hunting is about waiting. And waiting. And waiting some more. If you can’t sit still, find a different hobby.

The Gear You Need (and What You Can Skip)

Don’t fall for the marketing hype. You don’t need to spend a fortune to be successful. Here’s the essential gear you absolutely need:

Shotgun: A 12-gauge or 20-gauge is ideal. Don’t overspend on a fancy model. Reliability is key. I recommend the Mossberg 500. (Why? Because it gets the job done without breaking the bank.)
Ammunition: Turkey loads. Heavy shot. Experiment with different brands and shot sizes to see what patterns best in your shotgun. Don’t cheap out on ammo. It makes a difference. Federal ammunition is what I use and recommend.
Camouflage Clothing: Head to toe. Blend in with your surroundings. Don’t wear bright colors. Your visibility can make or break the hunt. I personally swear by Tidewe. They have value without the big price tag. (Pro Tip: Match your camo to your hunting location.)
Turkey Calls: Slate, box, and diaphragm calls. Learn how to use them all. Turkeys are finicky. What gets their attention today might scare them tomorrow. Practice, practice, practice. More on this later. Primos calls are hard to beat, in my opinion.
Decoys: Hen decoys are a good starting point. A jake decoy can be effective too, but use it with caution. Placement is crucial. Create a realistic setup. Decoys are vital to draw the turkey to your location.
Hunting Vest or Pack: To carry your gear comfortably. Pockets for calls, ammo, and other essentials. A built-in seat is a lifesaver. I’ve used the Tidewe vest for years.
Knife: For field dressing your bird. A sharp, reliable knife is essential.
First-Aid Kit: Don’t be an idiot. Be prepared for minor injuries.

Optional, But Helpful Gear:

Binoculars: To scout from a distance.
Rangefinder: To accurately judge distances. (Essential for ethical shots.)
Blind: If you’re hunting in an open area or with a group.
GPS or Smartphone with Mapping App: To navigate in the woods.

Don’t waste your money on:

Expensive Gadgets: Forget the high-tech gizmos. Focus on the fundamentals.
Overly Elaborate Camo Patterns: As long as you are concealed, you’re good.

What to Wear Turkey Hunting: Comfort and Concealment

The right what to wear turkey hunting isn’t about fashion, it’s about survival and success. Here’s the breakdown:

Base Layers: Moisture-wicking fabrics to keep you dry and comfortable.
Outer Layers: Camouflage clothing that matches your environment.
Boots: Waterproof and comfortable. You’ll be doing a lot of walking.
Gloves: Camouflage gloves to conceal your hands.
Face Mask or Head Net: Essential for breaking up your silhouette.
Hat: Camouflage hat to complete your disguise.

Turkey Calling Tips: From Squeaks to Seduction

Turkey calling tips is what separates the men from the boys. You can have all the gear in the world, but if you can’t call, you won’t get a bird.

Master the Basics: Learn to make a convincing yelp, cluck, putt, and purr. There are tons of YouTube tutorials. Watch them. Practice.
Listen to Real Turkeys: Spend time in the woods listening to wild turkeys. Pay attention to their vocalizations and how they use them.
Don’t Overcall: Less is often more. Let the turkey come to you.
Read the Turkey’s Response: Adjust your calling based on how the turkey reacts. If he’s coming in hot, don’t call at all. If he’s hesitant, try a soft purr.
Learn to “Cut”: A sharp, excited call that can trigger a tom’s curiosity.
Vary Your Calls: Change your calling sequence and cadence to sound more realistic. Don’t be a robot.

The Turkey Hunting Guide: Your Road Map to Success

This turkey hunting guide will take you from clueless to competent.

Scout Your Hunting Area: Find out where the turkeys are roosting, feeding, and strutting.
Set Up Strategically: Choose a location that offers good visibility and concealment.
Place Your Decoys: Create a realistic setup that will attract turkeys.
Call Sparingly and Effectively: Use the right calls at the right time.
Be Patient and Persistent: Don’t give up easily. Turkey hunting requires perseverance.
Know Your Shotgun’s Range: Pattern your shotgun and know your maximum effective range. Don’t take unethical shots.
Be Ethical and Respectful: Follow all hunting regulations and treat the land and wildlife with respect.

How to Turkey Hunt: A Step-by-Step Breakdown

Here’s the process in detail.

Wake up before dawn. It sucks, but it’s necessary.
Get to your hunting spot before sunrise. Turkeys are most active early in the morning.
Set up near a roosting area. Listen for gobbles.
Make a few soft yelps to let the turkey know you’re there.
Wait for the turkey to fly down.
Call sparingly as the turkey approaches.
Be ready for a shot.
Identify your target clearly before you shoot. Don’t shoot at movement.
Aim for the head or neck.
If you harvest a turkey, field dress it and take it home.

Turkey Hunting Season: When to Go

Knowing the turkey hunting season dates in your state is crucial. The dates vary by state, so check your local regulations.

Early Season: Turkeys are often more vocal and responsive.
Mid-Season: Hens are starting to nest, and toms are more aggressive.
Late Season: Turkeys can be call-shy and pressured.

My Personal Turkey Hunting Story (and What I Learned)

I remember the first day I ever stepped foot in the turkey woods. My daddy and I roosted a bird the evening before in a tree just across the pond on our family farm. I remember the hair standing up on my arm when daddy made the owl hoot with just his mouth, that tom let out a gobble that could be heard a mile away. I tossed and turned all night. Finally, when it was time to go, I almost ran to the truck, because all I could think about was that bird coming down from the roost before we could get there. We slipped through the woods in the dark and set up about 100 yards from the tree where we left him the evening before. Daylight was just starting to break when we heard him fly down. My heart was jumping out my chest. Daddy made a couple laps on the slate and he immediately gobbled about 50 yards deeper in the timber than the tree he left. So, we jumped up and made a move and swung around to cut him off before he got too far away. We set up on a knoll and set out some decoys hoping he would head our way before he found some hens. A couple more laps on the slate we could he him coming out of the bottom. I almost couldn’t breathe I was so nervous. A few minutes later we could see him pop his head up out of the bottom then back down. I could hear him scratching around just out of sight. We called again and could hear him coming up the ridge to our right. He came to 40 yards but there was a tree between he and I. It seemed like 30 minutes went by but probably more like 3 minutes, then he gave me the shot. I still remember my daddy telling me to breathe and squeeze the trigger when I was ready, but I better hurry up because he was getting closer. It was felt like slow motion as I pulled the trigger. The next thing I know I was in full sprint towards the bird. It flopped 3 times and didn’t move. You couldn’t wipe the smile off of my daddy’s face nor mine. I learned quick that there is no other greater chess match in the outdoors than the one between you and a longbird. I can’t remember what it weighed or how long the beard or spurs were but I never forgot the feeling that morning.

Ready to Get Started?

Turkey hunting isn’t easy, but it’s incredibly rewarding. Follow this guide, invest in the right gear (using my affiliate links, of course!), and get out there and experience the thrill of the hunt.

Don’t let another year go by while you sit on the couch watching other people live their lives. Take action. Get out there.

Now, before you go, tell me in the comments: What’s the biggest obstacle holding you back from trying turkey hunting? I read every comment and I’ll do my best to help you overcome it.

The post How to Turkey Hunt: A Complete Guide for Beginners first appeared on Big Man Sports and Outdoors.

Best Fishing Line for Crappie: 2025 Reviews & Expert Tips

Mike — Mon, 10 Mar 2025 22:28:49 +0000

Crappie fishing continues to be one of the most enjoyable and rewarding experiences for anglers of all skill levels. Whether you’re jigging near brush piles, trolling open water, or spider rigging, having the best fishing line for crappie can make all the difference. But with so many options out there, how do you know which one is right for you?

In this comprehensive guide, we’ll break down everything you need to know about choosing the best fishing line for crappie fishing in 2025. We’ll review and compare specific products, including Vicious Line, Bonehead Tackle, Mr. Crappie, ACC Co-Polymer, Reaction Tackle Braid, Bonehead Tackle Braid, Crappie Maxx, and Sufix. Let’s dive in!

Why Your Fishing Line Matters for Crappie

Crappie are known for their light bites and subtle strikes, which means your fishing line needs to be sensitive, strong, and reliable. The right line can help you:

Detect even the faintest nibbles.
Set the hook quickly and effectively.
Handle the fight when you hook a big slab.
Avoid spooking fish in clear water.

Choosing the best crappie line depends on your fishing style, the conditions you’re fishing in, and your personal preferences. Let’s explore the different types of fishing lines and their pros and cons for crappie fishing.

Types of Fishing Line for Crappie

Monofilament Fishing Line

Monofilament is a classic choice for crappie fishing, and for good reason. It’s affordable, easy to handle, and versatile.

Pros:

Great for beginners.
Stretches slightly, which helps absorb shocks and prevent line breaks.
Floats, making it ideal for topwater lures or bobber fishing.

Cons:

Less sensitive than fluorocarbon.
Can degrade over time, especially when exposed to sunlight.

Best Use Cases:

Jigging with lightweight lures.
Fishing in stained or murky water.

Top Picks:

ACC Co-Polymer: Known for its smooth casting and durability.
Crappie Maxx: A budget-friendly option with excellent knot strength.

Fluorocarbon Fishing Line

Fluorocarbon is a favorite among serious crappie anglers because of its invisibility and sensitivity.

Pros:

Nearly invisible underwater, making it perfect for clear water.
Sinks, which is great for deep jigging or trolling.
Highly sensitive, so you can feel even the lightest bites.

Cons:

More expensive than monofilament.
Stiffer, which can make it harder to handle for beginners.

Best Use Cases:

Finesse techniques like vertical jigging.
Fishing in clear water where crappie are easily spooked.

Top Picks:

Sufix: Designed specifically for crappie anglers.
Vicious Line: High-quality fluorocarbon at a reasonable price.

Braided Fishing Line

Braided line is incredibly strong and sensitive, making it a popular choice for crappie fishing in heavy cover or deep water.

Pros:

No stretch, so you can feel every bite.
Extremely strong and durable.
Thin diameter allows for longer casts and deeper presentations.

Cons:

Highly visible, which can spook fish in clear water.
Requires a fluorocarbon or monofilament leader for stealth.

Best Use Cases:

Spider rigging or trolling with multiple rods.
Fishing in heavy cover or around structure.

Top Picks:

Reaction Tackle Braid: A top choice for its strength and sensitivity.
Bonehead Tackle Braid: Known for its smooth casting and durability.

How to Choose the Best Fishing Line for Crappie

When selecting the best fishing line for crappie fishing, consider the following factors:

Line Strength (Pound Test)

Crappie are light fighters, so you don’t need heavy line. Most anglers use 4-8 lb test for crappie fishing. Here’s a quick guide:

4-6 lb test: Ideal for clear water and finesse techniques.
6-8 lb test: Better for fishing in heavy cover or stained water.

Water Clarity

Clear Water: Fluorocarbon is the best choice because it’s nearly invisible.
Stained or Murky Water: Monofilament works well and is more affordable.

Fishing Technique

Jigging: Fluorocarbon or monofilament for sensitivity and stealth.
Trolling or Spider Rigging: Braided line for strength and no stretch.

Budget

Monofilament is the most budget-friendly option.
Fluorocarbon and braided lines are more expensive but offer superior performance.

Expert Tips for Using Fishing Line for Crappie

Use a Leader with Braided Line
Braided line is highly visible, so always pair it with a fluorocarbon or monofilament leader (2-4 feet long) to avoid spooking crappie.
Check Your Line Regularly
Crappie fishing often involves fishing around structure, which can damage your line. Inspect your line for nicks or abrasions and replace it if necessary.
Match Your Line to Your Rod
Lightweight lines (4-6 lb test) pair well with ultralight rods for maximum sensitivity.
Experiment with Colors
While fluorocarbon is clear, monofilament and braided lines come in various colors. Use high-visibility lines in stained water and low-visibility lines in clear water.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best fishing line for crappie?

The best fishing line for crappie depends on your fishing style and conditions. Fluorocarbon is ideal for clear water and finesse techniques, while braided line is great for trolling and heavy cover.

Is braided line good for crappie fishing?

Yes, braided line is excellent for crappie fishing, especially when spider rigging or trolling. However, it’s best used with a fluorocarbon leader to reduce visibility.

What pound test line is best for crappie?

Most crappie anglers use 4-8 lb test line. Lighter lines (4-6 lb) are better for clear water, while heavier lines (6-8 lb) are ideal for stained water or heavy cover.

Can I use monofilament for crappie fishing?

Absolutely! Monofilament is a great choice for beginners and works well in stained water or for bobber fishing.

Final Thoughts

Choosing the best fishing line for crappie doesn’t have to be complicated. Whether you prefer the affordability of monofilament, the invisibility of fluorocarbon, or the strength of braided line, there’s a perfect option for your needs.

Now that you’re equipped with the knowledge to choose the best crappie line, it’s time to hit the water and put it to the test. Tight lines and happy fishing!

The post Best Fishing Line for Crappie: 2025 Reviews & Expert Tips first appeared on Big Man Sports and Outdoors.

Master Squirrel Hunting: Tips, Gear & Best Times to Hunt

Mike — Mon, 10 Mar 2025 15:30:09 +0000

Squirrel hunting is one of the most rewarding and accessible forms of hunting. It’s a great way to introduce beginners to the sport, sharpen your marksmanship, and enjoy the outdoors. Whether you’re a seasoned hunter or just starting out, this guide will cover everything you need to know about hunting for squirrels, including the best time for squirrel hunting, essential gear like a squirrel hunting vest, and the best gun for squirrel hunting. Let’s dive in!

Why Hunt Squirrels?

Squirrel hunting is more than just a pastime—it’s a tradition that connects us to nature and provides a sustainable source of food. Here’s why you should consider it:

Accessible for Beginners: Squirrel hunting requires minimal gear and can be done in most wooded areas.
Improves Marksmanship: Squirrels are small, fast, and challenging targets, making them perfect for honing your shooting skills.
Sustainable and Delicious: Squirrel meat is lean, flavorful, and a great addition to your wild game recipes.
Year-Round Opportunity: In many states, squirrel hunting seasons are long, giving you plenty of chances to get out there.

When is the Best Time for Squirrel Hunting?

Timing is everything in hunting, and squirrels are no exception. Here’s when to plan your hunt:

1. Early Morning and Late Afternoon

Squirrels are most active during the first few hours after sunrise and the last few hours before sunset. This is when they’re out foraging for food, making them easier to spot and hunt.

2. Fall Season

Fall is arguably the best time for squirrel hunting. The leaves are starting to fall, making it easier to see squirrels moving through the trees. Plus, squirrels are busy gathering nuts for the winter, so they’re more active.

3. Winter Hunts

In winter, squirrels are less active but still forage on milder days. With the leaves gone, visibility is excellent, and you can often spot them moving along tree branches.

4. Spring and Summer

Spring and summer can be productive, but the dense foliage makes it harder to spot squirrels. Focus on areas with abundant food sources like nut-bearing trees.

Essential Squirrel Hunting Gear

Having the right gear can make or break your hunt. Here’s what you’ll need:

1. Squirrel Hunting Vest

A good squirrel hunting vest is a must-have. Look for one with plenty of pockets to store ammunition, calls, and your harvested squirrels. Many vests also come with a game bag for carrying your catch.

2. Best Gun for Squirrel Hunting

Choosing the right firearm is crucial. Here are the top options:

.22 LR Rifle: A classic choice for squirrel hunting. It’s accurate, quiet, and perfect for headshots to preserve meat.
.410 Shotgun: Great for beginners or hunting in dense cover. The spread increases your chances of hitting a moving target.
20-Gauge Shotgun: Offers more power than a .410 and is ideal for longer shots.
Air Rifle: In some areas, air rifles are legal for squirrel hunting and provide a quiet, low-cost option.

3. Ammunition

For .22 LR rifles, use subsonic or hollow-point rounds to minimize noise and maximize effectiveness.
For shotguns, use #6 or #7.5 shot for a good balance of range and pellet density.

4. Camouflage Clothing

Squirrels have sharp eyesight, so wearing camouflage that matches your environment is key. Don’t forget a hat and face mask to break up your outline.

5. Binoculars

A pair of compact binoculars can help you spot squirrels moving in the treetops or at a distance.

6. Squirrel Calls

Squirrel calls mimic the sounds of squirrels to attract them closer. Barking and distress calls are particularly effective.

7. Hunting Boots

Comfortable, waterproof boots are essential for navigating uneven terrain and staying quiet while stalking.

How to Hunt Squirrels: Tips and Strategies

Now that you’ve got your gear, it’s time to talk strategy. Here’s how to hunt squirrels like a pro:

1. Scout Your Hunting Area

Before your hunt, spend time scouting the area. Look for signs of squirrel activity like chewed nuts, droppings, and nests (called dreys). Focus on areas with nut-bearing trees like oaks, hickories, and walnuts.

2. Still Hunting

Still hunting involves finding a good spot, sitting quietly, and waiting for squirrels to appear. Choose a location with good visibility and plenty of squirrel activity. Be patient—squirrels will often freeze when they sense danger, so wait for them to move before taking your shot.

3. Stalking

Stalking involves moving slowly and quietly through the woods, stopping frequently to scan for squirrels. This method works best in areas with less dense cover.

4. Use Calls

Squirrel calls can be incredibly effective. Use a barking call to mimic a squirrel’s alarm call, which can pique their curiosity and draw them closer. Distress calls can also attract squirrels looking to investigate the commotion.

5. Shoot Squirrels Ethically

Aim for headshots to ensure a quick, humane kill and preserve the meat. If you’re using a shotgun, aim for the center of the squirrel’s body to ensure a clean hit.

Best Places to Hunt Squirrels

Knowing where to hunt is just as important as knowing how. Here are some top locations:

Hardwood Forests: Oak, hickory, and walnut trees are squirrel magnets.
Edge Habitats: The transition zones between forests and fields are prime squirrel territory.
Creek Bottoms: Squirrels love areas near water sources, especially if there are nut-bearing trees nearby.
Public Hunting Lands: Many state and national forests offer excellent squirrel hunting opportunities.

Squirrel Hunting Tips for Beginners

If you’re new to squirrel hunting, here are some tips to get you started:

Start Small: Focus on areas with high squirrel activity to build your confidence.
Practice Shooting: Spend time at the range to improve your accuracy with your chosen firearm.
Stay Quiet: Squirrels have excellent hearing, so move slowly and avoid unnecessary noise.
Be Patient: Squirrel hunting requires patience and persistence. Don’t get discouraged if you don’t see action right away.

Field Dressing and Cooking Squirrel

Once you’ve harvested your squirrel, it’s time to prepare it for the table. Here’s a quick guide:

1. Field Dressing

Make a small incision along the belly and remove the internal organs.
Skin the squirrel by making a cut around the base of the tail and pulling the skin away from the body.
Rinse the meat thoroughly and store it in a cool place until you’re ready to cook.

2. Cooking Squirrel

Squirrel meat is lean and flavorful, perfect for stews, soups, or frying. Here’s a simple recipe to try:

Squirrel Stew

Ingredients: Squirrel meat, potatoes, carrots, onions, garlic, broth, and seasonings.
Instructions: Brown the squirrel meat in a pot, add chopped vegetables and broth, and simmer until tender. Serve hot with crusty bread.

Final Thoughts

Squirrel hunting is a timeless tradition that offers excitement, challenge, and a connection to nature. With the right gear, knowledge, and strategies, you’ll be well on your way to becoming a successful squirrel hunter. Remember to respect the land, follow local hunting regulations, and always prioritize safety.

So grab your squirrel hunting vest, load up your best gun for squirrel hunting, and head to the woods. The squirrels are waiting, and the adventure is yours to claim.

Happy hunting, and may your aim be true!

P.S. If you’re looking for more tips or gear recommendations, drop a comment below or reach out. I’m always here to help fellow hunters make the most of their time in the field!

The post Master Squirrel Hunting: Tips, Gear & Best Times to Hunt first appeared on Big Man Sports and Outdoors.

How to Build, Place, and Fish Brush Piles for Unlimited Success

Mike — Wed, 05 Mar 2025 20:24:38 +0000

Hey there, friend! If you’re serious about catching more crappie, building brush is one of the most effective strategies you can use. It’s like creating a little underwater neighborhood that crappie can’t resist. Today, I’m going to walk you through everything you need to know—from what materials to use, where to place them, and even how to find existing brush piles using marine electronics. By the time you’re done reading this, you’ll be ready to head out to the lake and start building your own crappie hotspots. Let’s dive in!

Why Brush Piles Work for Crappie

Crappie are structure-oriented fish. They love hanging around anything that provides cover, shade, and a place to ambush prey. Brush piles mimic natural habitat, offering crappie everything they need to thrive. Here’s why they’re so effective:

1. Cover and Protection: Brush piles provide a safe haven for crappie to hide from predators like bass and catfish.

1. Ambush Points: Crappie are opportunistic feeders. They use the branches and limbs of brush piles to ambush baitfish and other prey.

1. Temperature Regulation: In warmer months, brush piles in deeper water offer cooler temperatures, while in spring, shallow brush piles warm up faster and attract crappie.

1. Long-Term Investment: Once you build a brush pile, it can attract fish for years, making it a gift that keeps on giving.

What Materials to Use for Brush Piles

The materials you choose will determine how long your brush pile lasts and how effective it is at attracting crappie. Here’s a breakdown of the best options:

1. Trees and Branches

Hardwood trees like oak, cedar, and hickory are ideal because they decay slowly and last longer underwater. Look for trees with lots of branches—crappie love to weave through the dense cover.

- Pros: Inexpensive, easy to find, and provide natural cover.

- Cons: They will eventually decay and need to be replaced.

2. Pallets

Wooden pallets are a popular choice for building brush piles because they’re sturdy and provide a lot of surface area for fish to gather around.

- Pros: Easy to stack and secure, and they create a solid base for additional materials.

- Cons: They can break down over time, especially if they’re not treated.

3. PVC Pipe Structures

If you’re looking for something more durable, PVC pipe structures are a great option. You can build them with multiple arms and branches to mimic natural cover.

- Pros: Long-lasting, customizable, and easy to clean.

- Cons: More expensive and time-consuming to build.

4. Artificial Attractants

Products like Mossback’s Fish Habitat or Crappie Condos are designed to mimic natural cover and can be used alongside natural materials. These attractants often come with added scents or visual appeal to draw fish in faster.

- Pros: Highly effective, durable, and often come with added benefits like scent trails.

- Cons: Can be more expensive than natural materials.

Where to Place Brush Piles on a Lake

Location is everything when it comes to building brush piles. Here’s how to pick the perfect spot:

1. Depth

Crappie love brush piles in 8 to 20 feet of water, depending on the time of year.

- Spring: During the spawn, crappie move into shallower water (8-15 feet).

- Summer: As the water warms, crappie move deeper (15-35 feet) to find cooler temperatures.

2. Transition Areas

Look for spots where the bottom changes, such as:

- The edge of a channel or creek bed.

- A drop-off or ledge.

- A flat that slopes into deeper water.

- Saddles where there is a low lying area between to humps

These transition areas are natural highways for crappie, and placing a brush pile here increases your chances of success.

3. Near Existing Structure

If you know of a natural structure like a stump field, rock pile, or submerged timber, place your brush pile nearby. Crappie will travel between these areas, and your brush pile will act as a stopping point.

4. Accessibility

Make sure your brush pile is in a spot you can easily return to. Use landmarks or GPS coordinates to mark the location so you can find it again.

How to Build and Sink Brush Piles

Now that you’ve gathered your materials and picked the perfect spot, it’s time to build and sink your brush pile. Here’s how to do it:

1. Bundle Your Materials

- If you’re using trees or branches, tie them together with zip ties or rope to create a dense bundle.

- If you’re using pallets, stack them and secure them with cinder blocks or weights.

2. Add Weight

Use cinder blocks, concrete, or heavy rocks to sink your brush pile. Make sure it’s heavy enough to stay in place, especially in areas with current or boat traffic.

3. Drop It Carefully

- Lower your brush pile slowly to avoid it breaking apart.

- If you’re using a boat, use a rope to guide it down and ensure it lands upright.

4. Mark the Spot

- Drop a buoy or mark the GPS coordinates so you can find it later.

- Take note of nearby landmarks to help you locate it visually.

How Long Before Fish Relate to the Brush Pile

Patience is key, my friend. It usually takes about 2-4 weeks for crappie to fully move into a new brush pile, but I have seen it take less the a day when placed in the right place. During this time, smaller baitfish and other species will start using it, which in turn attracts crappie.

If you’re using artificial attractants like Mossback, you might see fish move in a little faster because of the added scent and visual appeal. These products are designed to mimic natural cover and can speed up the process.

How to Find Existing Brush Piles Using Marine Electronics

If you’re not in the mood to build your own, no worries! You can find existing brush piles with a good fish finder or sonar unit. Here’s how:

1. Look for Irregularities

Brush piles will show up as dense, irregular shapes on your screen. They’ll look different from the smooth lake bottom.

2. Use Side Imaging

If your unit has side imaging, you can scan a wider area and spot brush piles off to the sides of your boat. This is especially helpful in deeper water or when searching large areas.

3. Mark the Spot

Once you find a brush pile, drop a waypoint so you can return to it easily. I typically use my down imaging to coast over the waypoint with my motor off. Then I take a buoy and as soon as I see the brush start to show on the screen, I toss the buoy over my shoulder to mark it. Take note of the depth and surrounding structure to help you fish it effectively.

Pro Tips for Fishing Brush Piles

Now that you’ve built or found your brush pile, it’s time to catch some crappie! Here are some tips to help you maximize your success:

1. Vertical Jigging

- Use a small jig or minnow and drop it straight down into the brush.

- Crappie love to hang out right in the thick of it, so get your bait as close to the branches as possible.

2. Slow and Steady

- Crappie can be finicky, so slow your presentation down.

- Let your bait hover near the brush and use subtle movements to entice strikes.

3. Time of Day

- Early morning and late evening are prime times for crappie fishing.

- During the summer, don’t overlook midday fishing in deeper or look for brush piles under or around docks.

4. Experiment with Colors

- Crappie can be picky about color. Start with natural colors like white, chartreuse, or black, and switch it up if you’re not getting bites.

5. Use a Slip Float

- A slip float allows you to adjust the depth of your bait and keep it suspended just above the brush pile.

Final Thoughts

Building brush piles is one of the most rewarding things you can do as an angler. Not only does it improve your fishing, but it also gives back to the lake by creating habitat for fish. Whether you’re using natural materials, artificial attractants, or a mix of both, you’re setting yourself up for success.

So grab some branches, pallets, or PVC pipes, head to your favorite lake, and start building! And if you’re not into DIY, no problem—use your electronics to find existing brush piles and get to fishing.

Tight lines, my friend! Let me know how it goes.

P.S. If you’re looking for more tips on crappie fishing or want to check out some of the gear I use (like Mossback attractants), drop me a comment or shoot me a message. I’m always happy to help!

The post How to Build, Place, and Fish Brush Piles for Unlimited Success first appeared on Big Man Sports and Outdoors.

“Master Longline Trolling for Crappie: The Ultimate Beginner’s Guide to Catching More Fish”

Mike — Wed, 05 Mar 2025 17:39:02 +0000

Hey, friend! If you’re looking to up your fishing game and want to boat some crappie, longline trolling might just be the ticket. It’s a fun, productive way to fish that allows you to cover a lot of water while maximizing your chances of catching fish. In this guide, I’m sharing everything you need to know to get started with longline trolling for crappie.

What is Longline Trolling?

Longline trolling is a method where you drag multiple lines behind your boat at a slow speed, presenting baits to crappie swimming at various depths. The beauty of this technique is that you can cover a large area while keeping your baits in the water, increasing your chances of finding those pre spawn staged fish.

Essential Gear for Longline Trolling

Before you head out, let’s dive into the gear you’ll need for successful longline trolling. Keep it simple and affordable:

Poles: You don’t need fancy equipment to catch crappie using this method, but you need 8 to 14 poles from 16 to 6 feet long to maximize water coverage.
Rod Holders: I use a Tee style rod holder. It’s simple and you can make a variation of them at home if you have the tools. Mine are made of aluminum and stainless steel.
Fishing Line: Use a monofilament or braided line — a 4 to 6 lb test is typically ideal. Braided line offers minimal stretch and easier retrieval of your jigs should you get hung in any brush.
Bait and Lures: Crappie love jigs such as Charlie Brewer Slidders, Mr. Crappie Slabalicious, Bobby Garland Stroll’R and Southern Pro Power Grub. Really any action tail jig will work.
Jig Heads: You can use any weighted jig head from 1/32 to 1/8 oz depending on the depth and speed you want to run.
Boat: A kayak, canoe, or small motorboat works well for longline trolling; just ensure it’s stable and has space for your gear.
Fish Finder/Depth Finder: This tool isn’t essential but can greatly improve your chances. It provides valuable information on water depths, creek channels and fish locations.
Trolling Motor: Any trolling motor will do but if you can afford an I-Pilot or an equivalent it will make life a lot easier. It will allow you to set your direction and speed so that you can concentrate on the poles and your other electronics.

Timing is Everything

Understanding when to go crappie fishing can make all the difference. Crappies are often more active during early mornings and late afternoons. Water temperature is the real key to this method. You want the surface temps to be in the 50 to 55 degree range for pre spawn fish, so plan your outings accordingly. Spring and fall are particularly great seasons, as crappies tend to be more aggressive and closer to the shallows during these times.

Finding the Right Spots

Locating where crappies hang out is key to your success. Here are some excellent spots to consider:

Brush Piles and Structure: Crappie love to congregate around underwater obstacles like submerged trees and brush piles. This is where they ambush their prey.
Points and Drops: Look for underwater points and steep drops, as crappies often hang out in these areas, especially during feeding times.
Water Depth: Depth is crucial, as crappies can be finicky based on the time of year and water temperature. Pre staged fish usually hang out in about 12-15 ft deep in the water column, but the total water depth could be 18-25 feet. Use your fish finder to help identify the right depths to fish.

Setting Up for Longline Trolling

Now that you have your gear and have chosen a good spot, it’s time to set up:

Prepare Your Baits: You have options here. Single or double jig rigs can be used to catch these fish. I prefer the single but have caught plenty on the double as well. Watch this video on how to tie the double jig rig. Just ignore the bobber and bobber stop portion of the video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qaJTm0_kHIQ
Boat Speed: Position your boat and start moving at a slow, consistent speed – generally between 0.5 and 1.5 mph is ideal for trolling crappies.
Let Out Your Lines: For each rod, let out about 30 to 50 feet of line. This distance will keep your baits well behind the boat.
Depth Adjustment: You can adjust your baits’ depths while trolling. Use weights, vary how much line you let out, or adjust your speed depending on where the fish are biting.
Keep an Eye on Your Lines: Watch for any movement or bending of your rods; that indicates you might have a fish on!

The Method to the Madness

Once you have your jigs tied and ready start your trolling motor then you can either cast or place the poles in the rod holders and let out 30-50 ft of line. Some anglers “tip” the jigs with minnows (Adding a minnow to the hook after you put the jig on), but it isn’t necessary in my opinion. Then simply wait for the poles to start bending. If the bite is slow, you may want to turn the boat left and right with the trolling motor. If you get a bite pay attention to whether it was on the outside or inside poles. A bite on the inside poles tells you that the fish want a slower presentation where the outside poles indicate a faster one. That’s pretty much all there is to it. Simply put, it’s a chess match between you and the fish. You may have to exhaust all resources but they’re biting somewhere on the lake.

Tips for Longline Trolling Success

Be Patient: Don’t lose hope if the fish aren’t biting right away. Sometimes it takes a bit of time, especially on windy or cloudy days.
Vary Your Speed: If you’re not getting bites, try adjusting your speed. A slight change can make a big difference in attracting crappie.
Experiment with Baits: Crappies can be picky eaters. If a particular lure isn’t working, don’t hesitate to try different colors or types of bait.
Adapt to Weather Changes: Weather can affect fishing success. If it clouds over, crappies may move closer to the surface, so be ready to adjust your depth.
Use Multiple Rods: If local regulations allow, using several rods can increase your coverage and improve your chances of landing a crappie.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Overtrolling: Troll too quickly or let out too much line, and you might miss opportunities to catch fish.
Ignoring Depth: If you’re not catching anything, check your line depth. Sometimes crappies can be deeper or shallower than you expect.
Wrong Gear: Ensure your gear is appropriate for the species you’re targeting. Using lines that are too heavy can hinder the natural movement of your bait.

Longline trolling for crappie is an enjoyable and effective method that can boost your catching potential. With the right gear, the right knowledge, and a sprinkle of patience, you’ll be well on your way to enjoying the thrill of crappie fishing. So, pack up your gear, gather some friends, and get ready for a fantastic day on the water. I can’t wait to hear about your fishing adventures and see those crappie catches! Happy fishing!

The post “Master Longline Trolling for Crappie: The Ultimate Beginner’s Guide to Catching More Fish” first appeared on Big Man Sports and Outdoors.

The Ultimate Guide to Planting Deer Food Plots: Broadcasting, No-Till, and Seed Drilling Methods Explained

Mike — Tue, 06 Aug 2024 21:21:46 +0000

Creating effective food plots for deer is a key strategy in wildlife management and hunting success. The method you choose to plant your food plots can significantly influence their productivity and sustainability. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll explore three popular methods: broadcasting, no-till, and seed drilling. We’ll delve into the pros and cons of each method and provide step-by-step instructions to help you implement them effectively.

Broadcasting

Broadcasting is the process of scattering seeds evenly over the soil surface. This traditional method is widely used due to its simplicity and cost-effectiveness.

Pros of Broadcasting

Ease of Use: Broadcasting seeds is straightforward and does not require advanced equipment.
Cost-Effective: It minimizes expenses related to machinery and labor.
Time-Efficient: This method is quick, allowing you to cover large areas in a short time.

Cons of Broadcasting

Seed-Soil Contact: Achieving optimal seed-soil contact can be challenging, leading to lower germination rates.
Predation and Wastage: Seeds are more exposed to birds and rodents.
Weed Competition: Without proper soil preparation, seeds face significant competition from weeds.

Step-by-Step Instructions for Broadcasting

Site Selection and Preparation:
- Choose a well-drained site with good sunlight exposure.
- Mow existing vegetation to a low height.
- Apply a non-selective herbicide to kill any remaining vegetation.
Soil Testing and Amendments:
- Conduct a soil test to determine pH and nutrient levels.
- Apply lime and fertilizer as recommended by the soil test results.
Seed Selection:
- Choose seeds suited to your local climate and soil conditions. Common choices include clover, chicory, and brassicas.
Seed Broadcasting:
- Use a hand-held spreader or broadcast spreader to evenly distribute seeds over the soil surface.
- For small plots, you can also broadcast seeds by hand.
Seed Coverage:
- Lightly rake or drag the soil to cover the seeds with a thin layer of soil.
- Alternatively, use a cultipacker to press the seeds into the soil.
Watering and Maintenance:
- Water the plot if rainfall is insufficient to ensure seed germination.
- Monitor for weeds and apply selective herbicides if necessary.

No-Till Planting

No-till planting involves sowing seeds directly into undisturbed soil. This method helps preserve soil structure and moisture, promoting sustainable land management.

Pros of No-Till Planting

Soil Health: Enhances soil structure and microbial activity.
Moisture Retention: Undisturbed soil retains moisture better.
Erosion Control: Minimizes soil erosion by keeping the soil intact.

Cons of No-Till Planting

Initial Weed Pressure: Existing weeds can compete with new seedlings.
Equipment Costs: Requires specific no-till planters or drills.
Learning Curve: Requires adjustment to local conditions and mastering the technique.

Step-by-Step Instructions for No-Till Planting

Site Selection and Preparation:
- Choose a location with minimal slope to reduce erosion risks.
- Mow existing vegetation to create a manageable surface.
Herbicide Application:
- Apply a non-selective herbicide to kill existing vegetation.
- Allow time for the herbicide to work, usually 1-2 weeks.
Soil Testing and Amendments:
- Conduct a soil test and amend the soil based on the results.
- Apply lime and fertilizer as needed without disturbing the soil.
Seed Selection:
- Choose seeds that perform well in no-till systems. Perennial forages like clover and alfalfa are excellent choices.
Seeding Process:
- Use a no-till planter or drill to plant seeds at the recommended depth.
- Ensure even seed distribution and proper spacing.
Post-Planting Care:
- Monitor the plot for weed growth and apply selective herbicides if necessary.
- Water the plot during dry periods to ensure seed germination and growth.

Seed Drilling

Seed drilling involves using a drill to place seeds at a precise depth in the soil. This method is known for its efficiency and high germination rates.

Pros of Seed Drilling

Precision Planting: Ensures seeds are placed at optimal depths for better germination.
Reduced Seed Waste: Minimizes seed wastage and protects seeds from predation.
Uniform Growth: Leads to uniform crop stands and better weed suppression.

Cons of Seed Drilling

Equipment Costs: Seed drills are expensive and require a significant investment.
Skill Requirement: Requires expertise to operate the seed drill effectively.
Soil Compaction: Heavy machinery can cause soil compaction over time.

Step-by-Step Instructions for Seed Drilling

Site Selection and Preparation:
- Select a well-drained site with good sunlight exposure.
- Mow existing vegetation and remove debris from the field.
Soil Testing and Amendments:
- Conduct a soil test and amend the soil according to the results.
- Apply lime and fertilizer as needed to prepare the seedbed.
Seed Selection:
- Choose seeds suited to your local conditions and the intended forage for deer. Popular choices include soybeans, corn, and legumes.
Drill Calibration:
- Calibrate the seed drill to ensure it plants seeds at the correct depth and spacing.
- Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for calibration settings.
Seeding Process:
- Use the seed drill to plant seeds in straight rows, ensuring even distribution.
- Check the drill periodically to ensure proper operation and adjust settings if necessary.
Post-Planting Care:
- Monitor the plot for signs of pests and diseases.
- Water the plot as needed to support seed germination and early growth.
- Apply fertilizers as recommended to promote healthy plant development.

Comparing the Methods

Cost and Equipment

Broadcasting: Least expensive, minimal equipment required.
No-Till: Moderate cost, requires no-till planters or specialized equipment.
Seed Drilling: Highest cost due to the need for a seed drill.

Soil Health and Erosion

Broadcasting: May lead to erosion if the soil is not stabilized.
No-Till: Excellent for soil health and erosion control.
Seed Drilling: Good for soil health but can cause compaction if overused.

Efficiency and Seed Utilization

Broadcasting: Lower germination rates, higher seed wastage.
No-Till: Moderate efficiency, better seed utilization with proper techniques.
Seed Drilling: High efficiency, optimal seed utilization.

Labor and Time

Broadcasting: Quick and easy, minimal labor.
No-Till: Moderate labor, time-consuming initial setup.
Seed Drilling: Labor-intensive, requires time for proper setup and operation.

Conclusion

Choosing the right planting method for your deer food plots depends on various factors, including budget, available equipment, soil health, and personal preferences. Broadcasting is ideal for those seeking a cost-effective and quick solution. No-till planting offers long-term soil health benefits and is suitable for environmentally conscious land managers. Seed drilling provides precision and efficiency but requires a significant investment in equipment and labor.

By understanding the pros and cons of each method and following the step-by-step instructions provided, you can make informed decisions that align with your goals and resources. This ensures a successful and sustainable food plot that attracts and sustains healthy deer populations.

References

Whitetail Habitat Solutions: Easy No-Till Food Plot Methods
Deer Creek Seed: Food Plots for Pros
DeerBuilder: Deep Woods Food Plots
Field & Stream: Ultimate No-Till Food Plot
NRCS: Planting Methods Guide
Growing Deer TV: Broadcasting Seed into Small Hidey Hole Food Plots
Growing Deer TV: Broadcasting Seed Without Dragging or Disking

The post The Ultimate Guide to Planting Deer Food Plots: Broadcasting, No-Till, and Seed Drilling Methods Explained first appeared on Big Man Sports and Outdoors.